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miter box etc for picture frames

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  • miter box etc for picture frames

    my wife wants me tO MAKE PICTURE FRAMES. I HAVE A COMPOUND MITER SAW WHICH I THINK IS TOO BIG FOR THAT. SO WHAT IS A GOOD MITER BOX TO BUY AND SINCE I HAVE A AIR COMPRESSOR WHt wouuld be a good pnuemTIC STper to buy???

  • #2
    Re: miter box etc for picture frames

    a 8"-10" compo saw will do just fine.! Watch those fingers!!!!!!! for small pieces use a push stick to hold them against the fence after u get it all lined up..then cut [safety first]
    have u thought of a old fashioned miter bx and a good back saw.
    r u making flat frames or shadow bx frames
    u have to cut a 1/2 x1/2" for the pic,,glass i use a router and 1/2" rabbet bit
    to cut the flat frame then square the corners w/ a flat chisel but its all together.i use half lap joints for the flat frame on shadow bxs
    u can use a table saw to cut the rabbet then cut the 45's,30's,15's
    to make the shadow bxs i cut 1.1/4" flat frame then add crown molding,be sure when cutting that u set it up in the miter bx like it would be on . then cut the 45's.
    add a 1/4" reveal off set back .pencil mark then measure from that when cutting crown.
    the crown can be braded and glued,,but glue [only the top corners.]
    if u want after it drys at the top corners u can cut on the back a 1/8" halfway through.
    then add a 1/8" long grain piece this will add strength.glue in let dry then come back and cut the extra off.
    when makin finish flat frames cut the 45's,glue ,let dry and cut the corners at the top of the points half of the stock [like 3/4" thick board] on a 45 at the point then u can add the 1/8"long grain strengthening piece the same way,or u can carve the back to except the 1/8" strengthening piece,say 1" long x 1/8" thick x/3/4"wide then glue that down in .
    to make like a inlay where it will never be seen...
    this is better then nailing the corners,but if u like u can.
    u BE a Picture Frame Makin ,be selling them over the whole valley..everybody that sees them will want 1..LOL

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    • #3
      Miter box etc for picture frames

      I purchased a great miter box at Lee Valley. It is hand powered and the saw blades are replaceable, so no sharpening is required. It works great and might be suitable for your purposes.

      Miter box: Nobex® Professional Miter Box - Lee Valley Tools
      Rodster
      https://rodster.ca

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      • #4
        Re: miter box etc for picture frames

        A compound miter saw, in my opinion, would be perfect to make picture frames. My father in law has made literally hundreds of frames with his Makita 10" compound slide saw.

        The compound saw would be perfect if you were dealing with crown type molding for the frames. Going back to a manual miter box from a compound saw would be like going back to plowing with horses vs. a tractor in my opinion.

        I have two Porter Cable pneumatic nailers, one an 18 ga. and the other a 16 ga. Never had an issue with either.

        My nephew builds cabinets, and he figured he has ran over 100,000 18 ga. brads/nails through his $15.00 Harbor Freight nailer with nary a problem.

        Good Luck!

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        • #5
          Re: miter box etc for picture frames

          well I assumed the compound miter would be good, problem is the thing scares the snot out of me. I bought it 20 yrs ago and have rarely used it, and now that Im older and apparently with all kinds of failings going on I literally dread the thought of it, which tells me that's not a good start. I would rather get a good hand saw/miter thing and put up with the handsawing. call me chicken. Don't like table saws either. I just spoke to my wife at work and reminded her it will cost about 100 bucks for me to flop around trying to learn how to do it and she said nevermind. So maybe Im off the hook. To be honest it might be fun, but it might end up one of those things that you regret starting.

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          • #6
            Re: miter box etc for picture frames

            The compound miter saw is the best way to go (fast and usually more accurate than hand, at least for me).

            A few items to reduce the dread:
            1) make sure the saw is bolted or clamped to the bench it sits on.
            2) invest a few dollars in some hold-downs for the saw. These hold the stock to be cut to the miter saw table so you don't have to hold it by hand. Perhaps something like http://www.woodcraft.com/product/200...-capacity.aspx for each side of the blade.
            3) a sharp fine-tooth blade
            4) placing a sacrificial piece of wood between the molding and the saw fence - a piece of 1x2 or 1x3 ought to work. Same principal as using sacrificial stock when drilling - prevents the stock from splintering.
            Claude
            My FaceBook Page: https://www.facebook.com/ClaudesWoodCarving/
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            • #7
              Re: miter box etc for picture frames

              When I was making picture frames I had an 80 tooth blade. Cut smooth as silk.

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              • #8
                Re: miter box etc for picture frames

                I would use the compound miter saw, just cut outside the lines.

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