Carlo83, Claude's advice about the 600 & 1000 grit is good, but you don't have to do it each time, only to get your blade in shape for stropping to take over. Something I do, when I've got the stropping compound applied, I will add a drop of baby oil, helps smooth out the stropping compound.
This is the advice that I might add is the angle of your cutting edge will make a difference in how your blade cuts. This site might help, and I'm not talking down to you,
The knives I make are usually made from bar steel, with varying thicknesses.
The first time I do is measure the thickness of the blade and divide that width in two. Then if I want to 10° I divide the half-width by 0.176 = the distance up the top of the edge. This edge is cut from the center edge of the steel bar This number I usually multiply by 32 and round up that number will give the number of 32nd this distance represents.
10°=0.176
17°=0.305
22°=0.404
the point I'm trying to make (woo) the smaller the angle of the cutting edge the easier to put through the wood, but it is far less sturdy, one of the reasons for different knives
This is the advice that I might add is the angle of your cutting edge will make a difference in how your blade cuts. This site might help, and I'm not talking down to you,
The knives I make are usually made from bar steel, with varying thicknesses.
The first time I do is measure the thickness of the blade and divide that width in two. Then if I want to 10° I divide the half-width by 0.176 = the distance up the top of the edge. This edge is cut from the center edge of the steel bar This number I usually multiply by 32 and round up that number will give the number of 32nd this distance represents.
10°=0.176
17°=0.305
22°=0.404
the point I'm trying to make (woo) the smaller the angle of the cutting edge the easier to put through the wood, but it is far less sturdy, one of the reasons for different knives
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