No announcement yet.

Carving Standing Timber

  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • #16
    Re: Carving Standing Timber

    Hey Steamboat! I'm happy that you have an idea where I live and play. I'm content here.
    Glad you got the work tucked in for the winter.
    Do you know what the word "Banff" means?
    a) it's the sound that a mountaineer makes after the rope breaks and they hit the valley floor = BANFFFFF!
    b) Gaelic language for "the mouth of the river."

    both work well, your mileage may vary.
    Brian T


    • #17
      I had a tall spruce tree die due to the drought. It only started showing sign of dying at the beginning of summer. Arborists said it was unsaveable. Yesterday had all of it save a 12 foot tall stump removed. (also saved rest of it as logs)
      I saw Brian T advise on how to prevent rot but not completely clear on the process. Sounds like cutting a chunk out of back side near the bottom will help prevent this? Am I reading that right? I am a fairly experienced wood worker but a complete novice woodcarver. I appreciate a place like this to gain insight as it is a hobby I have always wanted to learn.
      Any advice on preparing a recently deceased tree for carving would be welcome.


      • #18
        For western red cedar, cut a wedge out of the side with the most knots, all the way into the center of the log. Top to bottom. This reduces drying stress. Totem poles on the west coast are meant only to be carved and seen from one side anyway. I have done this with short pieces of willow (48" - 72") over 5-7 years and they dried without a crack. Big issue was mold to wipe off after I skinned all the bark.

        Never done any of this with other logs. Worth a try as the tree is down now anyway.
        Brian T