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  • Glue up tips?

    Hi

    My post seems to have disappeared. My. Question was does anyone have any tips for glueing up two blocks of basswood for a neat seamless join up?
    Thanks, Nancy
    Last edited by NWiley; 10-12-2017, 11:00 PM. Reason: Text disappeared

  • #2
    I can't afford big pieces of yellow cedar so I have to make glue-ups of smaller slabs.
    I think these points apply to all woods:

    1. Find an adhesive that dries like the color of your carving wood.
    Yellow cedar is exactly that. The hardware store house brand of PVA carpenter's glue is pale yellow and sets up pale yellow
    2. Make absolutley certain that you have the grain running the same in all pieces. Put them side-by-side and gouge some waste wood in each. = Same sorts of cuts?


    I did a glue up of 3 pieces and flipped the middle one over, by accident.
    I had to draw arrows on them to remember which direction to carve!!!
    The middle piece was upside down and backwards to the grain of the 2 outer pieces. All cut from the same beam.

    Google Bill Reid's "Raven and the First Men." It's about 6' tall and about 6' in diameter.
    They took the roof off to get it into the building UBC/MOA.
    There are 145 pieces of yellow cedar in that glue up and I can't find a single seam = it can be done.

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    • #3
      I have always used Titebond with basswood and never had an issue. My advice would be to make sure you had two true surfaces before gluing. I used my dad in laws 6" jointer, and 12" planer to true my wood before gluing. Good clamps always are a good idea. If the piece was small, I just used the wood vise on his work bench. For larger pieces I used the Jorgensen wood clamps.

      You should always make sure that the grain is running the same way on both pieces. Nothing is more frustrating than continually having to turn your piece over as one side carves easy and the other side chips out...been there, done that!

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      • #4
        I like to rough up the mating surfaces with coarse sandpaper before gluing, giving the adhesive a better gripping surface that will retain the glue in the crevasses when you snug up the pieces with your clamps...prevents excessive squeeze out which can weaken the joint . I also use Titebond.
        Arthur

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        • #5
          Both glue surfaces should be trued up, ie flat and even. If you don't own a jointer or planer, then stick some 120 grit sandpaper to a flat surface and sand them both until you get an even surface on each. That way you get the "roughed up" surface that Arthur speaks of plus the flat surface that Tbox speaks of. Glue them up like RV says, clamp the snot out of them and you should be good to go. Oh yeah, Titebond is the best for this purpose. (Just my experience with it.)

          Tinwood

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          • #6
            Thanks guys! And Titebond it is. I have used Gorilla glue in the past and can't say I was very happy with it.

            Nancy

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            • #7
              A tip I learned a few years ago, after you have true surfaces and have spread the glue, on the area that will become waste when you cut out the pattern, sprinkle a few grains of salt before you clamp the pieces. It will stop them from slipping as you tighten the clamps.

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              • #8
                XRay a few of my carvings and you will see several 1/4" or 3/8" dowel plugs in the glue-ups between pieces.
                So far, I've been able to hide them all.

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                • #9
                  It may not be obvious to some people what "true-up the surfaces" means. Using a jointer (or other methods described), work the surfaces to be joined until absolutely flat, smooth & square. Test this flatness by sighting along the surfaces with your eye at surface level. Test how closely the surfaces match by putting them together and viewing a strong light through the joint. Do not plan to pull the joint into alignment with your clamps- this only causes internal stresses than will result in warping or cracking. Clamp each joint until dry, i.e. do not glue multiple joints in the same plane at the same time.

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                  • #10
                    Multiple joints need serious planning as pallin attests. Do in pairs then join pairs.
                    I still think that keeping all the grain running in the same direction saves a lot of physically awkward, "backwards" carving.

                    My handle "blanks" for Pacific Northwest native style carving knives have to start as 7/8" squares to fit my big front paws.
                    That's 7 strips of 1/8" thick wood. I do the whole pile, alternating rosewood & mahogany. Glue gooshing out everwhere.
                    I wrap the stack with masking tape, put a couple of bricks on top and hope for the best! Trust my Stanley #5 to clean that up
                    and shape the nose and tail.

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