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  • #46
    Well Joe, you know I will tell you this. I am kinda a person that loves to talk and gather opinion, various opinions and then sit down and make a decision. I love what some one wrote, if you ask 10 guys to tell you how to sharp you knife you will get 11 answers. Its great to have a plac like this and people willing to help a guy on the different part of the world. In this ****ty time of the world where almost every second person is an asshole, it is great to be a good soul and help who ever needs it. Please dont take it personal or be angry Joe. Take care and God bless !

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    • #47
      Just to encourage you but honing a blunted knife takes a lot of time, I blunted my best knife quite badly but not enough to put on a grindstone: I've spent an hour working on it and its still not there. I reckon it'll take at least another half hour.

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      • #48
        Just putting my other hand in this pot of soup: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2SSQ-U6Zu3o

        (Oh BTW--it's not a video by me.)

        BobL

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        • #49
          I can personly vouch for this method
          . . .JoeB

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          • #50
            240 grit
            then 500
            then 600
            then 1200
            then 2000
            after two hours no burr what so ever ? Knife is a bit sharper but no burr
            every time I used sharpie and everything is done with max precision but no burr

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            • #51
              Be patient--it takes time. You see in the video where he intentionally dulls the edge, and then brings it back to a scary sharp edge. The video was sped up so you know it's going to take some time.

              Go back to 1200 and don't go on until you see the wire form. (Go to MyChipCarving Scary Sharp video at about 3:03--he reviews what Im saying here) You need to get the two sides to meet and then the wire will form. Think of it as to sides of a V with a radius connecting them. You keep sharpening and the radius becomes smaller and smaller until the wire forms along the new edge of the blade that you have created. That's why it's important to do the same number of strokes on each side--so the edge will be centered over the thickness of the blade and the bevel on each side of the blade will be the same angle.

              BobL

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              • #52
                My go-to grit is 800. BobL (#51) is a good description.
                Get the edge and the finer ones reduce the scratchings until I can hone.
                Brian T

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                • #53
                  Tomorrow I will carry on, and I will not stop until I get wire form. Hope I will come back with good news. Thank you for you support guys !

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                  • #54
                    Carry on. You'll get it. Sharpening looks so fundamentally easy but it was not so for me.
                    I'll sharpen a knife over my knee now but it was not always so.
                    Brian T

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                    • #55
                      Stay with the coarsest grit until you get a wire edge (burr), then go to the finer grits. You need to get that burr first, then refine it with the finer grits.
                      Last edited by Claude; 10-05-2020, 09:04 PM. Reason: typo
                      . . .JoeB

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                      • #56
                        Hey guys here is new update and new problem. I manage to get my flexcut to cut as new. I got this shiney polished blade. But now when I try to carve my blade gets damaged very easy and I have some nicks and cut leaves scratches on the wood. What I did now is I think I made my cutting edge narrow angle so it brakes easy. What should I do now. If I this knife to professional sharpener what angle should I tell him to restore to be sharp but durable.
                        Last edited by Skob; 10-10-2020, 02:40 AM. Reason: typo

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                        • #57
                          OK. One puzzle solved, it just took time to figure it out.

                          When you work at a steady comfortable speed, how long can you go before the edge damage becomes visible in the wood?

                          For me, carving in clean western red cedar, that isn't 30 minutes between honings on my strop.

                          I have a file card with a 6 degree angle drawn on it.
                          I do my best to match that with each bevel of the blade so the edge is 12 degrees.

                          Many of my knives have bevels only on one side so I have other file cards with 12 degrees and 15 degrees drawn on them.

                          What was the total included bevel angle that you got to work so well?
                          Brian T

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                          • #58
                            I just made couple of cuts and noticed that. What was original angle cut of flexcut KN14 Roughing Knife does anybody know?
                            Last edited by Skob; 10-10-2020, 05:55 AM. Reason: Grammar

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                            • #59
                              Ok, so something you dont, maybe, want to hear right now, every carver likes a slightly different bevel angle and different woods need different angles too. A hard, silica filled hardwood like mahogany will chip and blunt a shallow angle knife where linden doesn't. I don't reprofile my knife when I change woods I accept the need for more frequent sharpening as the pay-off. Like stropping every 5 or 10 minutes.

                              Oh, if you use your knife as a lever you will wreck the cutting edge really, really quickly, make sure you use stop-cuts to remove waste not wiggling the knife blade around.

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                              • #60
                                I am second of giving up from carving every day there is something new OMG.

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