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  • #61
    I've measured the bevel angles of every edged tool that I have bought in the past 20 years.
    I found that I have to use 6 or more different bevel angles, if I want to preserve the factory angles.
    I have a Flexcut KN14. The total included bevel angle is 12 degrees.

    I now have and use mostly crooked knives of Pacific Northwest Fist Nation designs.
    Twelve degrees, no more than 15 degrees,
    is good for everyday carving in soft woods like the cedars.
    Brian T

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    • #62
      Brian T 6 degrees on on each side right. Thas is narrow wow

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      • #63
        I never push the knife edge straight into the wood like I do with an adze or a gouge.
        Always seems to be a bit of a diagonal slicing action.
        Maybe make much shallower cuts?

        Brian T

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        • #64
          Same here, lots of small shavings, no deep cuts, they are hard work on me and on the blade.

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          • #65
            Originally posted by Brian T View Post



            I have a file card with a 6 degree angle drawn on it.
            I do my best to match that with each bevel of the blade so the edge is 12 degrees.

            Many of my knives have bevels only on one side so I have other file cards with 12 degrees and 15 degrees drawn on them.
            Can you take a picture you file card ans upload it so i can check it out

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            • #66
              Here's the 12 degree card and a bunch of crooked knives.
              I hold each knife stationary and then run the abrasive at 12 degrees out over the edge.
              I have been cut to the bone with these things.
              You do not have permission to view this gallery.
              This gallery has 2 photos.
              Brian T

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              • #67
                Check Amazon out for these:
                Wedgek Angle Guides 10 to 20 degrees for Sharpening Knives on Stone, Blue

                . . .JoeB

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                • #68
                  The sharpening media are set up parallel and at the very edge of the bench.
                  I stand up.
                  I hold my forearms tight against my ribs.
                  I try to match the position of the tool edge to the angle on the card.
                  Then, moving from my knees (not my elbows), I make a single pull pass.
                  Stop and lift the edge straight up. Back to the start, down and another pull.

                  After each grit, I test the edge in a piece of carving wood to judge my progress.

                  You see 2 angles on the card.
                  I have to turn around to pull the other side of a double knife bevel.

                  Brian T

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                  • #69
                    Well my knife leaves so much scratches it feels like I carving with a bread knife

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                    • #70
                      What do you guys think should i buy Lansky sharpening set, will this help me? I guess I need ti check out angles on Lansky system how low can I go with this sharpening tool. Whats your thoughts?

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                      • #71
                        No finished knife should perform that way. No knife. Maybe a steel issue?

                        I have a fancy Stanley spoke shave with a soft blade. It folds in less that a single 12 " pull stroke.
                        Brian T

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                        • #72
                          Don't know what a Lansky is. I've been carving 40 years, and instructed for a big part of that, never bought a "kit", if a blade needs re-grinding I use a belt sander. I taught myself to grind and hone without guides when I started out as I very quickly realised I did not fit the bevel angles that other carvers used. It took me a long while but eventually I found that if I held my knife/gouge/chisel on the stone at the same angle I use to carve then that gave me the angle that best suited me. My grip is different from others, I use my muscles differently, my arm is different, I use an angle that suits me but it might well not suit anyone else. When I started all I had was an old oil stone I found in my dad's shed so I used that as my hone and used emery cloth to grind my blades with. I also bought a lot of disposable knife blades to practice on.

                          If your blade is scarred there is only one thing you can do. Hold it vertically on a piece of wet and dry or emery cloth and GENTLY buff the blade until all the nicks are gone. Your blade cutting edge is now lovely and smooth and completely blunt. Now, use all the practice you have had and sharpen the knife. I would be using a power file, many would use a belt sander, many others a bench grinder, or emery cloth stuck on a 2x1. There are a hundred ways to grind a blade. Once the cutting edge gets close to a wire edge then go back to the strop. The emery cloth stuck on a wood block with double sided tape worked really well for me
                          Last edited by Andrew V; 10-12-2020, 02:36 PM.

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                          • #73
                            Andrew V thank you man thank you very much I will try that, and do it all ove again. Last 12 days only thing that I am doing it sharping my knife and trying it on the block of wood But I will not give up I will still try than you guys very much

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                            • #74
                              Sharpening is the most difficult of all the carver's skills. I used to sharpen my novice learner's tools with them watching until they felt confident to take over. Keep going, learning on your own is really tough but you will get there. I am looking forward to watching what you achieve, we can advise on technique but we can't teach the right attitude. You already HAVE that!

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                              • #75
                                Tomorrow I will try to record what am I doing so you can see it also

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