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im looking for a flex shaft special rasps( carbide ?)

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  • im looking for a flex shaft special rasps( carbide ?)

    hey guys i would like to carve big pike and musky lures. ive start with a gouge but i think ive found something quicker. does anyone know the name and model of these please ? https://youtu.be/9hjjW14gSGs?t=5m53s
    and that one https://youtu.be/1Wlgdth5F6o
    im i wrong when i think it's quicker than a gouge ? btw feel free to suggest me another kind of carbide if you think it can remove more wood and quicker than these youtube ones.
    i hope someone can find it , im so happy to know something like it exist. my flex shaft model is foredom sr

    easy with my english ,it's not my first language
    cheers

  • joepaulbutler
    replied
    A knife and then sand.

    Leave a comment:


  • noobdominic
    replied
    sound good. what yould be the best bit to make gill like it ? https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/08...33068950431221

    Leave a comment:


  • joepaulbutler
    replied
    Grobet Cylinder End Cut Carbide Burr 32.58621, Standard Cut, 1/4" Shank DIA, 2-3/4" OAL Grobet Cylinder End Cut Carbide Burr 32.58621, Standard Cut, 1/4" Shank DIA, 2-3/4" OAL
    This what I use


    Leave a comment:


  • noobdominic
    replied
    Originally posted by joepaulbutler View Post
    You know, along with your "tooth" burr you might want to get a 1/4" shaft,1/2"Dia x 1" spiral cut cylinder for rapid smooth the grooves
    this ? https://www.heusch.de/tl_files/heusc...1_700_6103.jpg which one did you use for wood like cedar ?

    Leave a comment:


  • joepaulbutler
    replied
    You know, along with your "tooth" burr you might want to get a 1/4" shaft,1/2"Dia x 1" spiral cut cylinder for rapid smooth the grooves

    Leave a comment:


  • noobdominic
    replied
    yeah iy had a lot of style.i also prefer these one because once you can make them close to the real thing they almsot look like the same which is impossible when they are like yours

    Leave a comment:


  • dogcatcher
    replied
    Go to the 7:40 point in that last video and you will see him using a small belt sander. That is what I used to shape most of the fish I used to make. Mine were what most would call "antiqued" versions of new fish lures that were supposed to look old. I also made the duck decoys doing the same, they were crude, but a local decorator loved them. She must have bought a 100 over the years, I saw one at an estate sale and they had it ridiculously priced as an antique, not a reproduction. The seller was distraught when he found out it was only about 10 years old. I saw him later, he told me that he got the high price for it, even though the buyer knew it was a reproduction.

    Leave a comment:


  • lionslair
    replied
    I have three grades of some. depends on how much work and how close I am to a line. I like the solid but the shell looks like an advantage of length on wide cuts. Back torque can be heavy and these require gloves and aprons and shield over the face in case they catch or whip into yourself. Gloves should be leather not cloth. Cloth snags and will wrap up rapidly.

    Leave a comment:


  • noobdominic
    replied
    **** me i just realize that my second link didn't start at the right time. sorry for that, here is the other one that i would like https://youtu.be/1Wlgdth5F6o?t=7m21s

    Leave a comment:


  • noobdominic
    replied
    for sure,maybe im wrong but i guess it's almost the same time ,the guy with a coarse bit will get is shape faster but he will have to sand more than the guy with a smooth burr on the other hand the guy with a smooth one will take lots of time to have his shape done but he will have to sand less ? does it make sense ?

    Leave a comment:


  • joepaulbutler
    replied
    One thing you got to remember using the extra coarse, you have to stop removing before you get to the exact desired shape, there is some clean up to remove all the groves left by the extra coarse, just my $0.02

    Leave a comment:


  • noobdominic
    replied
    it look really sweet. how about that one ? which one should be more aggressive ? https://www.woodcraft.com/products/e...coarse-3-4-x-1

    Leave a comment:


  • BobD
    replied
    Yes, that's similar. Here's another one:

    http://www.woodcarverssupply.com/1_2...ctinfo/259801/

    (if you get the mandrel, it works for both sanding sleeves and sandpaper drums).

    Leave a comment:


  • noobdominic
    replied
    Originally posted by BobD View Post
    In the first video, it is a safe-end cylinder-shaped carbide bur. In the second video it's a bull nose cylinder shaped carbide bur. You can find them on the Foredom website (Foredom.com), SaburrTooth (saburrtooth.com) or Kutzall (www.kutzall.com).

    Cylinders are good for roughing out, but to really move wood, I prefer the carbide bur sleeves (that fit onto a rubber sanding drum). You can change sleeves to change grit, just like a sanding drum, and they are usually longer, so you have more working area. The ones I use the most come from SaburrTooth.

    Best Regards,
    Bob Duncan
    Technical Editor, Woodworking/DIY
    hey bob https://youtu.be/mIQdR_U_xqM?t=1m38s
    something like that ??
    Last edited by noobdominic; 07-11-2018, 06:15 PM.

    Leave a comment:

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