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  • chip carving knife sharpening

    Trying to sharpen my chip carving knife...to the recommended 10 degrees.
    Not sure what that means ..I have been using a 10 degree block to guide my blade angle to the stone.

    should it be a 5 degree block ?

    using a 120/280 oil stone followed by a 400/1000 water stone and a 3000/8000 water stone
    going 30 strokes per blade side per stone grit....does that sound about right?

  • #2
    10 is the included bevel angle = 5 degrees per side which is no more than the thickness of the blade lift along the spine.

    On work days, you shouldn't have to ever start at less than 600. I go 800 just to say I did it! then 1000 then 1200 then 1500
    then hone on a hard strop with CrOx (chrome green) compound.

    I don't count. Five or ten strokes depending on how long I've been carving (30-45 minutes).
    You can paint the bevel with black felt marker, over and over again, to watch what you're doing.

    Then, I test in scrap wood just to make certain that I did what I needed to do.

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    • #3
      just to be clear.....which angle is correct?
      Last edited by Meldave99; 01-26-2018, 08:41 PM.

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      • #4
        If the line in your diagram labeled "blade" represents the other side of the bevel, the answer is 10 degrees. As RV said the 10 degrees is the included angle. A 5 degree bevel would not provide enough metal support to the cutting edge. The feathery edge would constantly break down.
        Last edited by pallin; 01-26-2018, 10:50 PM. Reason: spelling

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        • #5
          Apologies as I am having trouble explaining myself.

          I am placing the side of the blade flat against a10 degree angled guide block to make contact with the sharpening stone

          thinking this is the 10 referenced as the correct angle for a chip carving knife yes?

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          • #6
            If I understand you right, the included angle would be 20 degrees for a 10 degree bevel on one side. The angle of the single bevel will be 10 degrees (as illustrated in your post) which is fine for your knife. 5 degrees would probably be too acute.
            Last edited by Nomad; 01-27-2018, 05:49 AM.
            Terry

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            • #7
              I don't go crazy over the angle. When stropping on leather or ceramic stone, I hold the blade somewhere between flat and a dime's thickness. Never had trouble keeping an edge.
              Every day should be unwrapped like a precious gift.

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              • #8
                As I use a chip knife for other things, I guess(?) that the edge is about 15 degrees total included bevel.
                It's a Moor large chip knife with the ugly plastic handle. I lean on it. Why I have not snapped off the blade is still amazing.

                Papasar has the best suggestion = lift the spine about the thickness of a dime each side, no more, and tune up the edge.

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                • #9
                  If you raise the spine up the thickness of a dime while working on a stone (or sandpaper) you are creating a secondary bevel. Many chip carving knives are beveled from edge to spine. If so, they should be worked flat on the stone, on both sides to maintain the original bevel. I'm with Papasar and RV on this matter; I prefer a secondary bevel.
                  Last edited by pallin; 01-28-2018, 10:27 AM. Reason: spelling

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                  • #10
                    I stumbled across this today, might be of some help
                    https://www.sharpeningsupplies.com/D...ngles-W28.aspx
                    . . .JoeB

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by joepaulbutler View Post
                      I stumbled across this today, might be of some help
                      https://www.sharpeningsupplies.com/D...ngles-W28.aspx
                      Great link Joe. That 6" hand held strop they sell is one of my favorites. Good outfit.
                      Terry

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                      • #12
                        Thanks to all for the 'sharp' advise!

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                        • #13
                          I'm still using box card on a hard support for a strop. CrOx green for the honing compound.
                          The waxy carrier in the CrOx has ruined all of my leather strops after some years.
                          No matter what it is, keep the angle constant and consistent.

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                          • #14
                            Looks like the same machine I have a 7" unit. Does a great job but a 5 or 6 is about the same. They(Grinder company / hardware stores) have holders for our knives. I sharpen our kitchen knives and my pocket knives as well. Might try my hand axe as well some day. I use the 7" strop on the other end and it does the work when needed.

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                            • #15
                              Guess I'll jump into the fray. Question 1, why are you "sharpening" your blade? Did you chip the edge, or break the tip? If your knives come "carving sharp", NEVER touch them to a stone! "Sharpening" removes metal. You should be stropping ONLY. I have knives that in 30 years have never touched a stone. The strop is your best friend, and I agree mostly with RV, but I prefer white aluminum oxide.
                              The machine that is shown is for sharpening kitchen knives, pocket knives etc., NOT carving knives. Again, the only time you should "sharpen" a carving knife is if you chip the blade, or break the tip. Just my $.02, others may differ.
                              Steve Reed - Carvin' in the flatlands!

                              My fb page: https://www.facebook.com/stephen.ree...8.100000156660 683&type=3

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