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  • Sanding

    I read in Wayne's Chip carving book that he sands before chipping. Is this a must do - just got the knives yesterday and started practicing.

  • #2
    gee no answers for you i will try and cooperate to give you some feedback a lot of folks wont carve after sanding becaue they are afraid bits of the sand will get in thewood and dull the knife, personally I dont worry about it. I just had a piece of basswood tha was really rough and flaky and I want to put a intricate kind of pattern in it, it was like chip carving and sanded it all first to get a really smooth clear finish because, once I carved it I couldnt sand it anymore unless I wanted to recarve it, or touch it up. that migh be what he is referring to. Once you have a chip carved pattern in your wood, it would be heartbreaking to sand all those sharp edges off tha you worked so hard o maintain. just my two cents.

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    • #3
      They say,... do not sand until your finish that ... it is hard on the tools. Me I sand.....I need to see the shape of item so I can see what next needs to be shaped or cut....the more the detail, the more I sand. I never yet hurt my tools...it is rocks and metal in the wood ....that has made chips in my tools.

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      • #4
        Originally posted by Dileon View Post
        They say,... do not sand until your finish that ... it is hard on the tools. Me I sand.....I need to see the shape of item so I can see what next needs to be shaped or cut....the more the detail, the more I sand. I never yet hurt my tools...it is rocks and metal in the wood ....that has made chips in my tools.
        Wayne says that it helps with doing the chip carving so that is why I asked.

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        • #5
          I would personally caution against sanding before carving as the fine dust and grit (which you cannot see) left behind after sanding will tend to dull your tools.
          Keep On Carvin'
          Bob K.

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          • #6
            Always sand my cc plates with 400 and then 600 grit and then dry wipe. Never had a problem with dulling the blade
            Bill K.
            Every day should be unwrapped like a precious gift.

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            • #7
              If sanding dulls my tools, I sharpen them. I don't sweat the small stuff, I just want to enjoy my carving.

              I have no doubt that those who caution against all sanding before or during carving are correct, but I'm an imperfect creature who's not always rational. I just want to chill when I'm carving and don't really care about the unseen consequences of my faulty reasoning in pursuit of relaxation. Let the chips fall where they may (Ha, ha.).
              Arthur

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              • #8

                At the suggestion of my wife I have switched to using the foam sanding blocks used for shaping acrylic fingernails. They come in various grits and don't seem to leave any abrasive on the wood.

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by pallin View Post
                  At the suggestion of my wife I have switched to using the foam sanding blocks used for shaping acrylic fingernails. They come in various grits and don't seem to leave any abrasive on the wood.
                  This sounds like the way to go I have a bunch will use them up and go from there. I got the knives last week and about to start using wood as soon as the ez board I bought is used up.

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Daroc View Post
                    This sounds like the way to go I have a bunch will use them up and go from there. I got the knives last week and about to start using wood as soon as the ez board I bought is used up.
                    What's your opinion of EZ Board? Do you like carving it as compared to wood?
                    Arthur

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by Arthur C. View Post

                      What's your opinion of EZ Board? Do you like carving it as compared to wood?
                      It's seems to be good for practice and perfect the technique. I don't have to worry about grain cuts and the hardness of the wood.

                      I am using it cause I bought 4 boards - it's good for that. Cost is depending of how you get wood. Once it's gone I don't think I will buy more unless I need to practice something else. I have http://www.craftsmensupply.com/ near me and I will be getting most basswood from that source cause I can drive there. S&H costs are my determining factor. I spent $50 just on wood and the shipping cost would have added another $20-30.

                      Hope this answers you're question.

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                      • #12
                        I'm with papsar, I always sand before to get the surface really smooth. After carving, I do a light sanding with 400 grit.
                        Steve Reed - Carvin' in the flatlands!

                        My fb page: https://www.facebook.com/stephen.ree...8.100000156660 683&type=3

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                        • #13
                          I suspect the reason is to remove the oxidized surface that is harder than under. Might try Green pads used to clean kitchen pans - no grit and the plastic might give a go on the surface. Just a thought. One side is hardened and the other softer. Be sure to keep the metal scraping stuff off as it will rust and stain wood. Not the copper but steel and maybe the SS - depending on the wood and SS.

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                          • #14
                            Just a thought - If you must sand before your carve make sure to use good quality paper with well bonded abrasive. And if sanding afterwards do the same but with paper mounted to a proper sanding block so you don't loose the definition of your carving....

                            If carving regular section timber then a thicknesser might provide a good enough finish on which to start carving....?
                            Website: http://raifkillips.com

                            Facebook Page: https://www.facebook.com/KillipsCarving

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                            • #15
                              There's a couple reasons to sand before chip carving. First, these intricate patterns depend on an accurate drawing (or tracing). If the wood isn't smooth (at least 220-grit), the rougher wood can interfere with your lines. Second, unless you are very careful, it's easy to sand off the sharp corners of the chips you're carving. Some folks sand off any remaining marks from the pattern, but others use an abrasive eraser (Tombow Sand Eraser for example). These erasers are abrasive enough to remove the pencil/graphite marks without changing the shape of the chips. Third (and this really doesn't happen much) rough spots can affect the cuts. Chip cuts need to be smooth the length of the cut, and rough spots can affect your cut, especially if you're making a long cut and drawing your hand across the board.

                              Best Regards,
                              Bob Duncan
                              Technical Editor, Woodworking/DIY

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