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Glue up for relief carving question.

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  • Glue up for relief carving question.

    I am planning to make an 22 by 4 inch oak header for a door frame of a utility bathroom closet and of course put a carving into into it. The grain runs left to right across the top of the closet. Can I glue a block, say 3 by 4 inches to the center, where the grain of the block runs up and down and hence perpendicular to the header's grain? The block would be a triangle block carved into a face and its beard would flow into the header. Is this glue up a bad idea?

  • #2
    Originally posted by Combo Prof View Post
    I am planning to make an 22 by 4 inch oak header for a door frame of a utility bathroom closet and of course put a carving into into it. The grain runs left to right across the top of the closet. Can I glue a block, say 3 by 4 inches to the center, where the grain of the block runs up and down and hence perpendicular to the header's grain? The block would be a triangle block carved into a face and its beard would flow into the header. Is this glue up a bad idea?
    Combo Prof, I don't see a problem , if the glue is atop notch product. And clamped tightly. And I wood use, perhaps a 2 part glue that is water proof. And not in my thoughts a bad idea. I do like your thoughts on the face and ?? Is it the same wood? Also sand finish the parts prior to gluing for a real tight fit. (ie) no air between.
    And let us see what you come up with.
    Chuck
    Chuck
    Always hoping for a nice slice that won't need sanding!

    https://woodensmallthings.blogspot.com/2021/01/

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    • #3
      Sounds doable to me.

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      • #4
        You could also attach the center block with screws from the back as with most of the birds & fish in this carving:

        Sky&Water6.jpg

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        • #5
          No problem with that, but I would carve the block before attaching to the header. Also, if you plan to stain, I'd do that before gluing, too. Yellow carpenters glue (e.g., Titebond, or similar) will do fine, but should be weighted or clamped for at least a half hour then allowed to cure overnight.
          Arthur

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          • #6
            Thanks. I was concerned about opposing movement between the two as the wood dries and expands from moisture. Adding a screw I think will be good idea and won't hurt. I plan to carve most of the face first glue, and then blend the beard into the header. I will start this tonight or tomorrow. It may be difficult the wood I have is very dry.

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            • #7
              I am very interested how you will make this...keep looking.

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              • #8
                For the example I shared (above), most of the figures were mounted to a scrap board for carving - to avoid nicks in the background. In your project, the beard carving will extend into the background header. The grain direction at the contact point may give you some challenges.

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by yolli View Post
                  I am very interested how you will make this...keep looking.
                  I will. I have stuff I have to do tonight, so I will start on this project tomorrow.

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by pallin View Post
                    For the example I shared (above), most of the figures were mounted to a scrap board for carving - to avoid nicks in the background.
                    Wow. I just had the same idea. Did you mount them with screws or glue? If glue was it the put a sheet of paper between the "to be carved" and the "scrap board" method?

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                    • #11
                      I mounted the "to-be-carved" pieces to the work board with two screws. This was to prevent the piece from rotating under the pressure of carving. When putting the carved pieces on the final back panel, I used only the two screws (each) - no glue.
                      This photo shows a similar technique was used for figures to be added to a piece based on Escher's "Reptiles:"

                      048.jpg

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                      • #12
                        I tried mounting to a scrap board with screws. One wack with a chisel and the oak block split. So I cut a new block (2 by 3 inches) and clamped it in the leg vise. Then I chopped with chisel away until it had a basic shape and finished the rounding over with a rasp. Then with various knives and palm tools I started putting in the detail, holding it either in my hand or holding it to the bench with my hand. Let me just say that big box store kiln-dried-too-quickly oak is tough to carve. But "here" is the result so far (Tomorrow I will clean it up and add some more detail. I also start on the backer board aka door header.
                        You do not have permission to view this gallery.
                        This gallery has 1 photos.

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                        • #13
                          You've already carved the head, but something to try next time. Stick it down to the workbench (or a piece of scrap lumber) using double-sided carpet tape. Once carving is finished, you can gently pry it off with a couple of screwdrivers and/or putty knives. For a carving that size, a 1 inch square piece of the tape ought to work just fine to keep it positioned on the bench.

                          Claude
                          My FaceBook Page: https://www.facebook.com/ClaudesWoodCarving/
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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by Claude View Post
                            You've already carved the head, but something to try next time. Stick it down to the workbench (or a piece of scrap lumber) using double-sided carpet tape. Once carving is finished, you can gently pry it off with a couple of screwdrivers and/or putty knives. For a carving that size, a 1 inch square piece of the tape ought to work just fine to keep it positioned on the bench.
                            Claude
                            Thanks I wish I had know this trick earlier. It still may help when I add detail. Is this the preferred method for carving appliques?

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                            • Claude
                              Claude commented
                              Editing a comment
                              I have screwed the wood to a piece of scrap, I have used the double-sided carpet tape, and I have used the newspaper/white glue method. Preference is for the individual carver to determine. Try them all on a couple of scrap pieces and see which one works best FOR YOU! Anchoring a too-be-carved piece to a larger scrap piece by whoever means allows you to fasten the scrap piece to the workbench using F-clamps or C-clamps so you have both hands free to manipulate the gouges.

                          • #15
                            [QUOTE=Combo Prof;n1232026]I tried mounting to a scrap board with screws. One wack with a chisel and the oak block split. SNIP
                            If you drill a pilot hole before using the screw it puts less pressure on the wood and may prevent the splitting you experienced when mallet carving, which also stressed the wood.

                            Arthur

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