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Rough out knife

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  • Brian T
    replied
    Although they are rarely shown, I think that chain saws have led to much more dramatic and larger carvings in the Pacific Northwest.
    There's such rapid progress from design to finishing in many poles these days. Large sizes of modern gouges have helped a lot as well.

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  • Dileon
    replied
    Best rough out .....a chainsaw.....they come in all sizes and shapes.... and for fast rough out....can not beat it in any way or form. .

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  • Brian T
    replied
    Just with the blades turned for a pull stroke. Some dogmatic views claim you shouldn't.

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  • willywog
    replied
    Originally posted by Brian T View Post
    Why use a knife at all? Why not use a simple coping saw? Next to nothing in garage sales.
    So I rigged one to cut with a push stroke and the other to cut with a pull stroke.
    Much slower planned cuts as well.
    You rigged one you say... How different is your rigged unit from another used just reversing the blade.. What be the difference. ??

    Willywog

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  • Brian T
    replied
    I think that chunky roughouts are less work when I make a bunch of cuts with a coping saw (or bigger).
    Then pry/bash off the lumps. One shaving after another with a knife is tedious.

    I agree = I highly recommend that everybody make a few knives from some other steels.
    That has been such common practice here in the Pacific Northwest that it seems odd if you never try.

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  • willywog
    replied
    Originally posted by tbox61 View Post

    Mr. Coate's knife looked familiar to me, and then I realized what it was. In my opinion, it looks like he modified an Old Hickory butcher knife into a carving knife.
    Well your close but wrong.. He is modifying an old fish fillet knife. How do I know you ask yourself.. Here is how.. lol

    Video of him making one.. Enjoy

    Willwog

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PUmXZc7UuGw

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  • joepaulbutler
    replied
    The use of Kutzall, Saburrtooth, or Typhoon, bur will allow for lots of wood removal, also shaping at the same time

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  • Dileon
    replied
    I do not use a knife for rough out. I use the bandsaw, I use a saw, I use chisels with a mallet, To take off large pieces is almost impossible with a knife. Unless you are using softwoods.

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  • Greapotho
    replied
    Thanks all for the advice. I ended up making a purchase from helvie.

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  • Brian T
    replied
    Changing a farrier's crooked hoof knife into a wood carver is a little more brutal than that!
    I grind from 25* down to 12* with a chainsaw file. Then, go to 400 paper and up.

    Commonly honing edges every 30 minutes or so, adzes included.

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  • Just Carving
    replied
    I agree with Eddy. Sandpaper for repairs and maybe to put the edge back on due to wear after a year or so of carving. Just strop often and a lot. I usually find that 30 strokes both sides alternating back and forth will do the job.

    Bob L

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  • Eddy-Smiles
    replied
    Originally posted by Greapotho View Post

    Ok. Do you have any sharpening stones that are recommended? I currently have a leather strop and compound.
    Greapotho..... Technically, with most knives coming pre-sharpened by the manufacturer, you have all that you need. A good strop and compound is all that is necessary unless you break off the point of your knife or chip the blade in one way or another. In the event you want to re-do the edge I wouldn't suggest sharpening stones for a beginner. Automobile grade sand paper available at automobile parts supply stores and some hardware stores in varying degrees of grit will allow you to reshape a knife while at the same time, lessening the chance of ruining the blade. Start off at a rough Grit of 220/240 and work your way up to a Finnish grit paper of 1500/2000. Sandpaper sharpening is sometimes called the "Scary Sharp" method and I wish that I had known about it 20-years ago when I first started carving. It would have saved me a whole lot of money on stones and diamond hones which now just sit in my tool box unused. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QV8MtMU3Eck&t=14s

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  • Brian T
    replied
    Why use a knife at all? Why not use a simple coping saw? Next to nothing in garage sales.
    So I rigged one to cut with a push stroke and the other to cut with a pull stroke.
    Much slower planned cuts as well.

    Leave a comment:


  • tbox61
    replied
    Everyone gives good advice here. There are many better options that what Mr. Coates uses in his videos. Helvie, OCC Tools and Deepwoods to name a few. My roughout knives are a Gerald Sear's #3 Helvie, and a modified Stanley utility knife.

    I have watched his videos, and while they are interesting and he does pretty good work, I think there are better videos by Lynn Doughty, Arlene Zomer, or Gene Messer to help a newbie getting started.

    Mr. Coate's knife looked familiar to me, and then I realized what it was. In my opinion, it looks like he modified an Old Hickory butcher knife into a carving knife. I have several handed down from my grandfather that were from the 1930's and 40's. They have excellent steel, and are easy to sharpen, but that would NOT be the first knife to think of to modify into a carving knife. It might work well for him, as some of the wood he carves looks a bit like plain 2X4's and a bit sketchy to be carving, but that is just my opinion.
    Last edited by tbox61; 10-15-2018, 10:01 AM.

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  • joepaulbutler
    replied
    I think researching this site, will give all the answers you will need to get started, there are several threads on this site talking about what you are asking. this is a great site for info, but sometimes you have to work for it a bit., not being ornery, just giving you a nudge

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