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  • #16
    I can "feel" that each chip/shaving takes more and more effort = time to work on the edge.
    Maybe I see that the tool edge is crushing, not cutting the wood.

    1. Look at the edge in a very bright light to judge which grit to start with (experience).
    Damage (little bent-over spots) needs 600, otherwise 800 or 1,000.
    2. Do 1200 then 1500 then hone on a strop with the green Chromium Oxide honing compound.
    - - - - - - -
    Don't wait so long and give the edge a few swipes on a strop every 30-45 minutes.
    Carvers here in WCI have a great variety of methods and materials for edges:
    a) they all work well, including the carvers themselves.
    b) pick one and learn to do it, they all seem to have a learning curve that you can't get around!
    Brian T

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    • #17
      I'm going to order one tomorrow, looks like i can choose, 400/1000, 600/1000, 1000/4000, OR 1000/6000

      can someone suggest the best grit combo out of those to start with please?

      thanks again everyone!

      Comment


      • #18
        I have only recently heard of Beavercraft so I'm guessing they are new to the woodcarving arena and can't really speak on the quality of their products. You have been given some excellent advice from some very good wood carvers here on the forum and you should take note of it. It is my guess that the basswood you are getting from Beavercraft is southern basswood. Rule of thumb: If you don't know what kind it is, don't buy it! You have already been told about buying your basswood from Heinecke and I strongly recommend that you do so. Many of us do and we all find it to be the best northern basswood you will find anywhere.

        When it comes to tools it depends on the type of carving you are doing. I carve caricatures and ornaments in the round which are generally no larger than 6 inches. I use Helvie knives and have been using them for several years. They are family owned custom knife makers and, for my money make some of the best carving knives you can buy. They are competitively priced and carry a wide range of hand made carving knives, gouges and tools. They also will custom make just about anything you are looking for. You also get friendly personal assistance from the owner of the company. The advice given above pretty much covered everything you need to know about gouges and sharpening.
        Keep On Carvin'
        Bob K.

        My Etsy page: https://www.etsy.com/shop/rwkwoodcarving


        My Facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/robert.kozakiewicz.9


        My RWK Woodcarving Facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/rwkwood


        My Pinterest page: https://www.pinterest.com/rwkoz51/

        Comment


        • #19
          Originally posted by Bob K. View Post
          I have only recently heard of Beavercraft so I'm guessing they are new to the woodcarving arena and can't really speak on the quality of their products. You have been given some excellent advice from some very good wood carvers here on the forum and you should take note of it. It is my guess that the basswood you are getting from Beavercraft is southern basswood. Rule of thumb: If you don't know what kind it is, don't buy it! You have already been told about buying your basswood from Heinecke and I strongly recommend that you do so. Many of us do and we all find it to be the best northern basswood you will find anywhere.

          When it comes to tools it depends on the type of carving you are doing. I carve caricatures and ornaments in the round which are generally no larger than 6 inches. I use Helvie knives and have been using them for several years. They are family owned custom knife makers and, for my money make some of the best carving knives you can buy. They are competitively priced and carry a wide range of hand made carving knives, gouges and tools. They also will custom make just about anything you are looking for. You also get friendly personal assistance from the owner of the company. The advice given above pretty much covered everything you need to know about gouges and sharpening.
          Thanks for the reply Bob, Really appreciate it.

          I Have taken Note of the replies/information provided to me above by the other forum members. thats why I replied to each and every person. truly some great/experienced carvers with wonderful replies. loved every one of them.

          I did check out the Heinecke website. they sound like great people. with a great service/product to offer.
          Being Canadian i'll be trying to find a more local supplier rather than order from the US.

          the Helvie knives look great, i'll keep that in mind.

          lastly, I do appreciate all the replies regarding sharpening. and allthough you feel that everything i need to know about gouges and sharpening has been told to me on 1 and half pages of this thread i've still got a few questions.

          for a starter 2 sided sharpening stone, where would be a good place to start? Grit wise, for both side of the stone?

          hope thats okay.


          Thanks again for the Reply Bob, Appreciate you

          Comment


          • #20
            Get the 600/1000. But you generally only use a stone or anything more abrasive than a strop when you have damaged an edge or you are trying to reshape it. Then it is a matter of preference of what you use. I use a belt sander to get the angles on some new tools lowered down where they will carve, being careful to cool the tool frequently in water. But I know the edges on the BeaverCraft tools would need quite a bit of work to get them cutting good. The same for most Mora knives that I have seen. Their initial edges are more designed for camp work and occasional carving of green wood than actual carving. The edges will have dual bevels and the angle is steeper, meaning it will keep it's edge for a long time and is not likely to chip or break in rough work. That's fine if that is your intended purpose, but it can make if frustrating to carve with, since it is not really sharp enough for that. I never realized how dull my knives were until I bought my first sharp carving knife. It took me a couple of years to learn how to properly sharpen my tools, but I know others that have never quite gotten the hang of it. But you can always send them off to be sharpened, as many places selling carving tools offer a sharpening service. I highly recommend Helvie knives, Drake, and Pfeil tools. It can be frustrating and dangerous carving with dull tools, but it can be difficult to know what you are working toward if you have never owned a sharp tool.
            'If it wasn't for caffeine, I wouldn't have any personality at all!"

            http://mikepounders.weebly.com/
            https://www.facebook.com/pages/Mike-...61450667252958
            http://centralarkansaswoodcarvers.blogspot.com/

            Comment


            • #21
              Welcome Jkill and this is an excellent carving forum...as you can tell. BeaverCraft is actually a Ukraine company and they are getting US distributors...including Amazon. I have one of their bowl carving knives and they seem OK. Everyone has to select a knife they like and there is a blizzard of opinions out there. I have Flextcut, Murphy, and others but I've settled on the OCC which is also what Doug Linker uses. Gene Messer has also used his OCC with great reviews. I now use the OCC almost for everything. It holds an edge well, is easy to sharpen, and keeps an edge a long time...in basswood.

              I'm told white pine is an excellent wood to carve and not sure what type of pine Doug suggested...he is in Canada (Ontario). I've noticed he uses basswood and an OCC now for all his carvings. Why switch horses when what you have works so well. My OCC is 1.5 inches from tip to end and I like it so much I bought another as a backup.

              Welcome, search the forum, post your questions and you will get thoughtful answers, although not the same ones every time. Oh, ditto on Heinecke...

              Bill
              Living among knives and fire.

              http://www.westernwoodartist.com

              Comment


              • #22
                Oh, I use a file folder cut to size, add Felxcut Gold and that is my stroping approach. I think Randy suggested a tad of oil on the sharpening compound...help a lot. Again, everyone has their own approach and just use what works for you.
                Bill
                Living among knives and fire.

                http://www.westernwoodartist.com

                Comment


                • #23
                  Originally posted by JKill View Post

                  Thanks for the Reply Claude! ordered my basswood online, it came from Beavercreek. I cant tell from looking at it if its northern or southern. I'll defintly look around for the softer stuff.

                  how is Pine for carving? The bass wood is nice, but 15$ for 8 little 1x4 inch sticks is a little steep $$$

                  Doug Linker on Youtube suggested a 2x4 if pine from the store would be fine?

                  got the knife back to a 17 degree edge for now, looking at new sharpeners/stones right now

                  thanks again for the reply!
                  Pine from the DIY stores would be lousy for carving. I've heard that sugar pine from the left coast is good, but haven't tried it. There are quite a few Canadian carvers on here, so hopefully one of them will offer you some sources of Northern basswood. One source is to look for local timber mills. Another would be a local hardwood retailer. If you can find a couple of local timber mills, go out and talk to them and see what they can do for you. You might be able to get some of their cut-off scraps for next to nothing.

                  I agree with mpounders about the 600/1000 grit. You could likely save some money by going to the local auto parts store and getting some sandpaper in the appropriate grits. Glue or tape it down to a flat surface (12 inch tile, piece of glass, some MDF shelving, etc.) and use this to reshape or correct a dinged edge. Google "scary sharp". Then strop on cardboard to get it "carving sharp"

                  I'm another who had to work at it for a while before I figured out to correctly sharpen my knives.

                  Oh - I also have used a belt sander to take care of a chipped gouge edge. Mike's right about dipping in water - if the edge turns blue, you just lost the temper in it. I touch my gouge to the belt sander and count to five as I rotate the gouge, then dip into a container of water. I ruined the edge on a Swiss Made gouge by leaving it on the belt too long... Took me a couple of hours to grind off the blued area...

                  Claude
                  My FaceBook Page: https://www.facebook.com/ClaudesWoodCarving/

                  My Pinterest Page: https://www.pinterest.com/cfreaner/

                  My ETSY Shop: https://www.etsy.com/shop/ClaudesWoodcarving

                  Comment


                  • #24
                    Originally posted by mpounders View Post
                    Get the 600/1000. But you generally only use a stone or anything more abrasive than a strop when you have damaged an edge or you are trying to reshape it. Then it is a matter of preference of what you use. I use a belt sander to get the angles on some new tools lowered down where they will carve, being careful to cool the tool frequently in water. But I know the edges on the BeaverCraft tools would need quite a bit of work to get them cutting good. The same for most Mora knives that I have seen. Their initial edges are more designed for camp work and occasional carving of green wood than actual carving. The edges will have dual bevels and the angle is steeper, meaning it will keep it's edge for a long time and is not likely to chip or break in rough work. That's fine if that is your intended purpose, but it can make if frustrating to carve with, since it is not really sharp enough for that. I never realized how dull my knives were until I bought my first sharp carving knife. It took me a couple of years to learn how to properly sharpen my tools, but I know others that have never quite gotten the hang of it. But you can always send them off to be sharpened, as many places selling carving tools offer a sharpening service. I highly recommend Helvie knives, Drake, and Pfeil tools. It can be frustrating and dangerous carving with dull tools, but it can be difficult to know what you are working toward if you have never owned a sharp tool.

                    10-4 Mpounders! thanks for the reply! I ordered a 600/1000 stone, and along with the leather strop hopefully I can get my beaver craft back to working order! I'm sure i'll have another thread posted about that once I recieve the stones.

                    The Mora I bought was a Mora 122 and is supposed to be made for carving. I took a closer look at the blade in the sunlight and it looks like there is to bevels for sure. I'll post a picutre once i figure out how to take pictures that are under 2 megs.

                    Thanks so much again for the reply, Appreciate the time you took!

                    Hope you are having a great weekend.

                    Comment


                    • #25
                      Originally posted by woodburner807 View Post
                      Welcome Jkill and this is an excellent carving forum...as you can tell. BeaverCraft is actually a Ukraine company and they are getting US distributors...including Amazon. I have one of their bowl carving knives and they seem OK. Everyone has to select a knife they like and there is a blizzard of opinions out there. I have Flextcut, Murphy, and others but I've settled on the OCC which is also what Doug Linker uses. Gene Messer has also used his OCC with great reviews. I now use the OCC almost for everything. It holds an edge well, is easy to sharpen, and keeps an edge a long time...in basswood.

                      I'm told white pine is an excellent wood to carve and not sure what type of pine Doug suggested...he is in Canada (Ontario). I've noticed he uses basswood and an OCC now for all his carvings. Why switch horses when what you have works so well. My OCC is 1.5 inches from tip to end and I like it so much I bought another as a backup.

                      Welcome, search the forum, post your questions and you will get thoughtful answers, although not the same ones every time. Oh, ditto on Heinecke...
                      Thanks for the reply Woodburner807!

                      Yea for $70 for 3 knives I got the kind of quality that was expected. not great but I think half decent for someone just starting out.

                      I havent used the Mora 122 I picked up just yet as my hands still have a few blisters and muscles are actually pretty sore from spending most of the day carving last week. I'll have to report back on how that knife is. At first glance it seems nice and is much better quality than the beavercraft items.

                      I was leaning toward Flexcut but went with a Mora as i've had a few of the camping knives in the past and was impressed with them. hopefully this carving model works out okay. I have a feeling I will probably end up getting a Flexcut at somepoint as well.

                      I just checked out the OCC website and turns out there is 4 dealers in Ontario which is great(thats where I am) so that might be somethihng for the future as well.

                      I'm going to watch a bunch more of Dougs videos and see if I can figure out where he gets his white pine, i'm pretty sure he said just a 2x4 if white pine from home depot. If I find anything definitive I will be sure to report back.

                      Thank again so much for the reply and hope your having a great weekend.

                      Comment


                      • #26
                        Originally posted by Claude View Post

                        Pine from the DIY stores would be lousy for carving. I've heard that sugar pine from the left coast is good, but haven't tried it. There are quite a few Canadian carvers on here, so hopefully one of them will offer you some sources of Northern basswood. One source is to look for local timber mills. Another would be a local hardwood retailer. If you can find a couple of local timber mills, go out and talk to them and see what they can do for you. You might be able to get some of their cut-off scraps for next to nothing.

                        I agree with mpounders about the 600/1000 grit. You could likely save some money by going to the local auto parts store and getting some sandpaper in the appropriate grits. Glue or tape it down to a flat surface (12 inch tile, piece of glass, some MDF shelving, etc.) and use this to reshape or correct a dinged edge. Google "scary sharp". Then strop on cardboard to get it "carving sharp"

                        I'm another who had to work at it for a while before I figured out to correctly sharpen my knives.

                        Oh - I also have used a belt sander to take care of a chipped gouge edge. Mike's right about dipping in water - if the edge turns blue, you just lost the temper in it. I touch my gouge to the belt sander and count to five as I rotate the gouge, then dip into a container of water. I ruined the edge on a Swiss Made gouge by leaving it on the belt too long... Took me a couple of hours to grind off the blued area...

                        Claude
                        Hi Claude! thanks for the reply!

                        Lumber mills eh? I live near a MASSIVE lumber mill. Tembec, Allthough that is In Quebec not Ontario. I am very close to Quebec though. thats a great hint and something i definetly have not thought of. I'll for sure check that out, I know a couple of the guys that work there, so Hopefully I can get a hookup.

                        Doug Linker, famous youtuber, is not very far from where I live and says white pine can be an excellent source for carving. I will have to check it out and report back.

                        great news about the 600/1000 Sharpening stones, I ordered them today! I am very excited to start learning to sharpen properly!

                        I dont have access to a belt sander, but good to know about the water/blue/temper, i will Definetly keep that in mind.

                        Thanks so much for your reply Claude, hope your having a great weekend.

                        Comment


                        • #27
                          I don't recall if Doug ever mentioned a source for pine...your stores/sources might be different than here in the US. Heck, even most of the hardware store's wood comes from western Canada anyway.

                          I have a Mora and it is certainly sharp but found it too big for the carving I do. Doug actually started out with one a few years ago, You might just ask in the comment section for his videos on Youtube.

                          Make sure you at least use a carving glove and thumb/finger guards. Doug doesn't and has had some nasty injuries and suggests all wear a carving glove but he doesn't. The glove helps protect you from blisters, as well as cuts. Not 100 percent but has saved me on many occasions and does help to hold the workpiece.

                          BTW, I find Doug has the best tutorials out there and explains things well without patterns, doesn't use a saw, and creates interesting characters. Gene is fine but doesn't usually use patterns. Sharonmyart is great but she only covers one type of character which gets a little boring after a while. If you do like those small characters then there is Jack Price CD's out there with a great variety. It looks like that is where Sharon got her knowledge from.

                          For knife sharpening, I use oil stones and work my way up to a black Arkansas for the final sharpening...then my file folders for honing. Many people say to hone every 20 minutes or more frequent, but after a while, you can tell when a knife needs honing by the way it cuts.

                          Lots to learn but the sharpening is as important as the carving. Doug also has a video on that but uses a belt machine...I don't.
                          Last edited by woodburner807; 07-06-2019, 07:53 PM.
                          Bill
                          Living among knives and fire.

                          http://www.westernwoodartist.com

                          Comment


                          • #28
                            Here is a list of Doug's videos, not sure it covers all: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?lis...XLbgFxGfPH7tHW
                            Bill
                            Living among knives and fire.

                            http://www.westernwoodartist.com

                            Comment


                            • #29
                              Also, Arleen "carversWoodShop" has a lot of tutorials and here is a list: https://blog.mischel.com/arlene-carv...arving-videos/
                              Bill
                              Living among knives and fire.

                              http://www.westernwoodartist.com

                              Comment


                              • #30
                                Not sure you have seen this, but Gene has a Youtube video on a review of Beaver Craft knives: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ezR8TGPKt-I
                                Bill
                                Living among knives and fire.

                                http://www.westernwoodartist.com

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