Help!! wood glue up.

[DiLeon]

Here is a new one, I have never done a wood block glue-up before. Anyways used whole big wood blocks and trees. LOL I need information. I got six blocks of old basswood blocks from Heinecke Wood. ...twelve by six by four. I want to make a glue up and I do not have a vacumn machine so what do you add for glued block pressure. Tell me how you do it and what kind of glue you use and tips like do you plane the wood??? And anything else that I need to know?

[pallin]

Di - I use clamps and Titebond 3 glue. First, you should determine the max dimensions of your glue-up. How will the six blocks connect? Only plan to glue the pieces that align with each other in each gluing step. The faces to be glued should be planed for best contact. You will need to check the contact area as you plane the mating surfaces.

Do you have multiple clamps long enough? You might plan on a clamp for every foot of glue line dimension. Another consideration is glue lines. Will the piece(s) be finished in a way to conceal glue-lines? If not, you want to minimize the joints.

This is just a start. Let me (and others in this discussion) know what questions it raises.

Sky&Water4.jpg

[mpounders]

Clamps are generally better, but weights will work also. I just use Titebond wood glue.

[DiLeon]

Got the wood stacked it like I was thinking about.... won't work until I draw the whole image out and measure what I need. Yes, I got some big clamps. Glue lines will be put on areas where there is not a lot of visual detail. The glue, how much do you put on? for example thin, medium, or thick? any tricks to get it spread on even? How long do wait before carving on it?

[Nebraska]

Here is an old thread that could help.

https://forum.woodcarvingillustrated.com/forum/woodcarving-illustrated/woodcarving/wood-carving-tips-and-techniques/1186463-glue-ups

[pallin]

I checked - I'm using Titebond Original. I squeeze out a ribbon, then spread it with a narrow spatula (putty knife). Apply enough to assure some glue squeezes out when clamping, but not a lot.
Basswood is very "forgiving" when it comes to glue lines. The relief carving blanks Heinecke has done for me do not show any glue lines (but I can find them). Here is a glue-up of two 4" boards. The glue line runs down the center. Note where it is visible and not.

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[Arthur C.]

Be careful and try to align the grain of the blocks so that you minimize any change of direction...makes carving a lot less onerous. I use Titebond or Gorilla Glue thinly, with some squeezeout, and bar clamps. Clamp snugly but not so tight that you force out most of the glue. I keep clamped for several hours, and leave overnight before stressing the joints.

[Eddy-Smiles]

Concur. Type II glue with clamps.

[pallin]

You may have to plane or sand smooth more than the gluing surfaces of the blocks. On critical sides, you may want to examine the area that will be either side of a glue line to see how the color and grain matches. I mean "critical" in terms of appearance in the final piece.

[Konaflyer7]

Again I am so happy to have found this forum. You all are so kind with your willingness to teach and provide insight from your experiences. A very classy group of people! Thank you!

[Arthur C.]

Kona, we've all been there, and we're all still learning from each other...it's a two way street!

[Claude]

After you clamp the pieces together, give it 10 minutes, then go and re-tighten the clamps a bit more. As some of the glue is squeezed out around the edges, the center will take longer to squeeze. Obviously, you need clamps in the center of the glue-up also. If you don't have clamps that can reach the center, take a hardwood board 2 x 2 or similar, with a couple of thin shims under it in the center and clamp down the ends of the board, but not real right; you want the excess glue in the middle to migrate to the edges, which is why you wait 10 minutes or so and then tighten the clamps slightly... Hope this makes sense.

Depending on the size of the glue-up, you may need to wait several days before unclamping in order for the glue in the center to set up.


Claude

[Myrastation]

Use white glue, like Titebond original, it will make any residual squeeze out a lot less visible. Always remember PVA glue is water soluble so the squeeze out cam be wiped away with a wet rag once the clamps start going on.

[DiLeon]

Thanks so much to everyone's help....I am going to do a glue-up. But first need to completely draw this new project out. This is old ... I want to carve a very wild-looking tiki project, screaming with heavy anatomical muscles perhaps. I have a file in fact which I have been adding to over the years with ideas. I found the file yesterday. After getting the blocks laid out to put together, it became very clear I had to decide the exact measurement of the tiki before I made a glue up. That means a complete drawing of a pattern. Due to the fact, I have set off my carpal tunnel in the wrist, plus a big-time damaged good thumb doing a massive garden project. I working on five projects at one time in order to switch out methods and avoid repetitive work which sets arthritis on fire... I was hoping to finish Shark but the thumb can not handle the power tools, or mallet work. But major, major thank you for all of your input!!!......if you think of any other tips...please add on.

[Randy]

The only thing I would add Di is to clamp from the center out. Use some scrap wood block between the clamps and the glue up. That well help spread the pressue and protect the softer basswood.