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Beeswax Finish

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  • #16
    Carnuba wax is a plant based wax. Bees wax is.....well, from bees, insects. The properties are different. Bees wax tends to stay on the soft side while carnuba wax hardens considerably once applied. Someone (anyone) can tell me I'm wrong here.

    Tinwood

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    • #17
      Tinwood, that's correct.
      Bee's wax is wax from bees. They sweat out flakes of it for construction.

      Carnauba comes from a species of palm tree.

      After the mess that I made for myself in a hot beeswax application, not again.
      Brian T

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      • #18
        Over the years I have settled on tung oil or helmsmen satin spar urethane for a finish on my sticks. One they have curd .l often use a coat or two of Johnson& Johnson paste wax, it is a hard wood floor wax ,melting it in with a hair dryer. We average 65” of rain a year down here and it adds another layer of protection. And I like the luster it adds.
        Last edited by Randy; 01-03-2020, 09:30 PM.

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        • #19
          I use the Beall system. which is three kinds of buffing wheels, compound and wax. The best thing about the system there is no heating and mess. Wax goes directly on the buffing wheel. Wood Buff kit has gained a multitude of admirers - especially among turning enthusiasts. Its ease of use, coupled with the sheen it produces, makes it a particularly elegant solution to many finishing dilemmas. I got it because I was never happy with a fine finish and I noted at top woodcraft shows their finish was perfectly smooth and really showed off the wood. I wanted that finish with work that show off the wood grain. Wax is almost never used as a primary finish but is instead used to complement other finishes. Wax can be applied over oil finishes, such as tung oil, or over other finishes such as shellac, lacquer and etc. The benefit of wax on finishes such as these is that the wax can be buffed to provide a fine shine, and the wax is easy to re-buff as needed. I use both waxes depending on the shine and softness I want on a piece of work.
          There are many different waxes available. The following is a general list of advantages:
          • Mildly water resistant
          • Moderately resistant to acids and alkali
          • Does not color the finish of the wood
          • Easy and quick to apply (rub on, rub off)
          • Very forgiving during application
          • Easy to re-apply if the original finish becomes worn or damaged
          • Non-toxic and food-safe
          • Carnauba wax is one of the hardest natural waxes, and takes a hard, glossy shine with a slick feel. By itself, it is brittle and very difficult to polish once it has dried.
          • Beeswax is a moderately soft, sticky wax with a wonderful smell, and it buffs out to a mellow glow. Although it becomes slippery when it melts, at room temperature it is too sticky to use for machine surfaces like a table saw tops. This stickiness, however, makes it ideal for surfaces that should not slip too easily. Some people also find the beeswax smell objectionable. I use beeswax for a softer look.
          • It is notable that unless you are wanting that perfect finish. All this extra work is not noticeable to the normal buyer.... unless you got a buyer who wants perfection or an outstanding smooth finish or someone like me who can see the difference between the two.
          Last edited by Dileon; 01-05-2020, 09:04 AM.

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          • #20
            Originally posted by Sammy66 View Post
            Thanks. I originally got interested in the "wax" finishing question because I have seen a foreign carver's work and that is what he uses. The finish on his carvings and what it does to the colors is stunning. It creates a very muted and elegant appearance in his work. (Plus he must spend hours sanding his work.)
            This kind of finish was what got me interested in the first place. I had a hard time finding out the secret although. most people do not like giving away their finish secrets..LOL the Beall wood buff system. Yes, tons of sanding and then.. It is the layers ...for you would be the paint, and the finish you put on it. Then the buffing with compound to take out all the paint bumps, then buff with the wax. Buffing wheels come in the round to ones that fit on a lathe or motor. For me, it was worth the whole kit 80 dollars for the kit plus lots of how-to videos from the manufactor...to get that special elegant look and most of all really taught me a lot about final finishes. Most of all I hate heating waxes and etc. for polishes...big mess. And this was easy to learn and use. This is the finish that most top of line woodworkers use for shows.
            Last edited by Dileon; 01-05-2020, 09:58 AM.

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