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Beeswax Finish

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  • Dileon
    replied
    Originally posted by Sammy66 View Post
    Thanks. I originally got interested in the "wax" finishing question because I have seen a foreign carver's work and that is what he uses. The finish on his carvings and what it does to the colors is stunning. It creates a very muted and elegant appearance in his work. (Plus he must spend hours sanding his work.)
    This kind of finish was what got me interested in the first place. I had a hard time finding out the secret although. most people do not like giving away their finish secrets..LOL the Beall wood buff system. Yes, tons of sanding and then.. It is the layers ...for you would be the paint, and the finish you put on it. Then the buffing with compound to take out all the paint bumps, then buff with the wax. Buffing wheels come in the round to ones that fit on a lathe or motor. For me, it was worth the whole kit 80 dollars for the kit plus lots of how-to videos from the manufactor...to get that special elegant look and most of all really taught me a lot about final finishes. Most of all I hate heating waxes and etc. for polishes...big mess. And this was easy to learn and use. This is the finish that most top of line woodworkers use for shows.
    Last edited by Dileon; 01-05-2020, 09:58 AM.

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  • Dileon
    replied
    I use the Beall system. which is three kinds of buffing wheels, compound and wax. The best thing about the system there is no heating and mess. Wax goes directly on the buffing wheel. Wood Buff kit has gained a multitude of admirers - especially among turning enthusiasts. Its ease of use, coupled with the sheen it produces, makes it a particularly elegant solution to many finishing dilemmas. I got it because I was never happy with a fine finish and I noted at top woodcraft shows their finish was perfectly smooth and really showed off the wood. I wanted that finish with work that show off the wood grain. Wax is almost never used as a primary finish but is instead used to complement other finishes. Wax can be applied over oil finishes, such as tung oil, or over other finishes such as shellac, lacquer and etc. The benefit of wax on finishes such as these is that the wax can be buffed to provide a fine shine, and the wax is easy to re-buff as needed. I use both waxes depending on the shine and softness I want on a piece of work.
    There are many different waxes available. The following is a general list of advantages:
    • Mildly water resistant
    • Moderately resistant to acids and alkali
    • Does not color the finish of the wood
    • Easy and quick to apply (rub on, rub off)
    • Very forgiving during application
    • Easy to re-apply if the original finish becomes worn or damaged
    • Non-toxic and food-safe
    • Carnauba wax is one of the hardest natural waxes, and takes a hard, glossy shine with a slick feel. By itself, it is brittle and very difficult to polish once it has dried.
    • Beeswax is a moderately soft, sticky wax with a wonderful smell, and it buffs out to a mellow glow. Although it becomes slippery when it melts, at room temperature it is too sticky to use for machine surfaces like a table saw tops. This stickiness, however, makes it ideal for surfaces that should not slip too easily. Some people also find the beeswax smell objectionable. I use beeswax for a softer look.
    • It is notable that unless you are wanting that perfect finish. All this extra work is not noticeable to the normal buyer.... unless you got a buyer who wants perfection or an outstanding smooth finish or someone like me who can see the difference between the two.
    Last edited by Dileon; 01-05-2020, 09:04 AM.

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  • Randy
    replied
    Over the years I have settled on tung oil or helmsmen satin spar urethane for a finish on my sticks. One they have curd .l often use a coat or two of Johnson& Johnson paste wax, it is a hard wood floor wax ,melting it in with a hair dryer. We average 65” of rain a year down here and it adds another layer of protection. And I like the luster it adds.
    Last edited by Randy; 01-03-2020, 09:30 PM.

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  • Brian T
    replied
    Tinwood, that's correct.
    Bee's wax is wax from bees. They sweat out flakes of it for construction.

    Carnauba comes from a species of palm tree.

    After the mess that I made for myself in a hot beeswax application, not again.

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  • Tinwood
    replied
    Carnuba wax is a plant based wax. Bees wax is.....well, from bees, insects. The properties are different. Bees wax tends to stay on the soft side while carnuba wax hardens considerably once applied. Someone (anyone) can tell me I'm wrong here.

    Tinwood

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  • Gilder
    replied
    You can put wax over any type of finish, but you can’t put any more finish over the wax. I use beeswax on occasion, as I have a huge chunk of it. But it smudges more than other waxes - it almost seems to remain slightly tacky - and doesn’t produce the same degree of luster as some others. My preference is carnuba wax. I’ll melt it down and mix it with mineral spirits until it’s a paste wax consistency. A food wax topcoat is wonderful. A good wax topcoat can be really beautiful

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  • lionslair
    replied
    In wood turning they use turtle wax - dries hard and with a shine... They also use turtle wax polishing paste - very fine grit to clean up the wood (some use 6000 grit for that). Wax tends to pick up but there are hard waxes and Bee is a soft wax. Try out and test.

    My great Uncle's carving had wonderful stain paint without protected cover. So far so good. These have been done for almost a 100 years. And while "Ma's apron (Mountain men and Ma) is a bit dirty - most white things that old are. Looks like it must have been thinned oil paints. He carved while waiting for work. He was a medical doctor in Indianapolis.

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  • Steve Reed
    replied
    You can also use Watco Wax. Brush on, let sit for a day, then buff. I use a 50/50 mix of dark and natural.
    Steve

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  • Sammy66
    replied
    Thanks. I originally got interested in the "wax" finishing question because I have seen a foreign carver's work and that is what he uses. The finish on his carvings and what it does to the colors is stunning. It creates a very muted and elegant appearance in his work. (Plus he must spend hours sanding his work.)

    Leave a comment:


  • Dashriprock
    replied
    Sammy, in Doug Linkers video on YouTube of his carving of a scarecrow he mentioned that after painting and a watered down antiquing wash he rubbed some Clapham's beeswax salad bowl finish on the carving. Have not used this myself but thought I'd mention it to you.

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  • sappy
    replied
    Bees wax is a soft wax, Johnsons floor wax is a harder wax, both will attract dirt like Brian said.
    Both will cover the paint without sealing it, however if you ever wanted to remove the wax sealing first would be a good idea. As for adding wax, has anyone tried a product like wood floor wax and shine? It dries hard and is removeable with a warm water and a rag. Unlike poly, which would require sanding to remove. Just wondering out loud here, thoughts?

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  • Sammy66
    replied
    Thanks for all of your answers. I wanted to try a wax type coating, but was unsure how to proceed. Sure appreciate the help!

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  • woodburner807
    replied
    Wax can make the object waterproof, in all the cases I am familiar with. However, I use Johnson's paste floor wax over tung oil or BLO. I realize BLO is waterproof but I like the look of the wax over it and adds some depth.

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  • Arthur C.
    replied
    I don't understand the reasoning behind using wax over a protective clear finish coat. Another thing I don't understand is the use of Feed N Wax...you can't "feed" dead wood, and it doesn't penetrate a clear coat anyway. Of course, those are just a couple of the very many things I don't understand. Not trying to step on anyone's toes here!

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  • rickm
    replied
    never had much luck with beeswax i have tried it on unfinished bowls and was never happy with it

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