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  • #16
    Good to know! When I decide to actually use paints!
    here is a updated picture on the bear! Worked out perfectly in the end!
    You do not have permission to view this gallery.
    This gallery has 1 photos.

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    • #17
      Came out nice, Becky, and a carving to be very proud of doing.
      Bill
      Living among knives and fire.

      http://www.westernwoodartist.com

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      • #18
        Thank you Bill!

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        • #19
          I have tried to sand down oils....but the result was never good. I have one Indian carving I been messing with for years on this subject. My input that it is not worth the effort due to uneven staining areas. If you get a good result you will be lucky. As anything you will do from now on is purely experimental. Finishes are not easy... until you find a method you like....they can ruin a good carving. In the future, you may want to stain with a mixture of oil paint to color that you want, and your oil to darken the color if too light. You need to experiment with staining although to get it down right and time wiping. I go light and if still too light then will restain to get the color I need. Often this works as you will find different woods stain different ways.

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          • #20
            Nice work on the bear - I thought the first one looked fine, but if it didn't make you happy, then the re-do was the right thing to do.

            Claude
            My FaceBook Page: https://www.facebook.com/ClaudesWoodCarving/

            My Pinterest Page: https://www.pinterest.com/cfreaner/

            My ETSY Shop: https://www.etsy.com/shop/ClaudesWoodcarving

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            • #21
              Originally posted by BeckyN View Post
              I usually apply linseed oil to slow cracking on my polar bears, and while finishing up a brown bear, am realized the Danish oil is coming out too light! I should not have linseed oiled him I guess!
              How can I fix it!
              Becky,

              Rather than give you my unsubstantiated opinions I called Walrus Oil. They manufacture the oil product I currently use. They advised against using polymerizing oils or other finishes on green wood.
              With the oils they said the trapped moisture would inhibit and likely prohibit the oil from curing. Also that the moisture as it worked to escape the wood will lift the grain in the finished wood. They were also concerned that the sealed wood could develop mold under the finish.

              I have done several carings in slightly green wood and avoided cracking by removing the pith to within 1/2 of the top of the project. This allows the wood to dry from the inside and outside reducing the chance of developing cracks. I do the same when setting wood to dry in the garage. The fly fisherman was carved in green wood and kept in a paper bag to slow drying while carving. It has a 3/8” whole drilled up to within 1/2” of the top. I finished drying in the microwave after carving.

              E1958D50-34DA-46BA-9C34-26392F23E14B.jpeg 3324BEA1-3A5D-4A60-A4ED-271344ABFBB7.jpeg
              Ed
              Living in a pile of chips.
              https://www.etsy.com/shop/HiddenInWood
              https://m.facebook.com/pg/CentralNeb...ernal&mt_nav=0

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              • #22
                Hi Becky
                He looks really cute. Glad you managed to come up with a solution. I like Eds Idea of the hole up the centre.

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                • #23
                  I was reading up on the removing the pithe, I like that idea!
                  with willows, I can't have any drying time until it is finished, or it us nearly impossible to carve, it turns into near cement when dry.
                  so much great info! Thank you everyone!

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                  • #24
                    It's common practice to hollow out the back side of totem poles. They are meant to be seen from only one side anyway. Cut a wedge right to the center of the log.
                    Here in the interior (away from the coast), almost all of the cedar logs are rotten in the core.
                    That gives you magnificent, knot-free, naturally curved wood.

                    I've done that with 6" willow that dried without a crack but as Becky says, they are now lumps of concrete.

                    The Irwin company make two drill bits that might be useful:
                    The installer's bit is 3/8" x 18" long.
                    The aircrafter's air frame bit is 3/8" x 12" if my memory serves.
                    Brian T

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                    • #25
                      Would it help to know I don't oil the bottom of the pieces, I only oil the rest. I have not had any problems with curing tho. Willow dries so darn fast its amazing overnight how hard it can get, and how much it can crack!
                      I learned the hardway when forgetting to freeze my wip.
                      I have kept a few practice tests, and have no mold or swelling, but who knows eh!

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