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Thinning Water Based Poly?

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  • Thinning Water Based Poly?

    As the Otter for Daughter practice piece is winding down and while still waiting for the aspen block to dry out some more. The little part of my brain that plans ahead it thinking about finish for the project that will maintain the color of the white aspen wood.

    I’m thinking water based poly but my past experience was that it dries so quickly that brush marks were a problem. So while there is information about how to thin wb poly wondering if anyone here has experience with using it on carvings?
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  • #2
    No experience here. Are you thinking of spraying it on? That seems to be how it is applied to furniture, but I'm sure you read what I read.

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    • #3
      Ed... I often use a water based poly but of the Americana and Delta products. I have used it watered down and original thickness. The only down side that I ran across was that with either method you need to ensure that no bubbles, puddles , or extra product is left on the work, otherwise it will dry white in those spots. I also only use distilled water. I'm not sure if this is really needed but it was recommended to me when I asked the same question as you.

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      • #4
        Eddy-Smiles Thanks Eddy for the information. Probably 20+ years ago thinned out some glue using tap water and the next time it was used was full of mold. Lesson learned but always a good reminder.

        Thanks

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        • #5
          sappy No not spraying but past experience when trying to apply wb poly on a say 12” tall carving with multiple sides and nooks and crannies if the brush over lapped an area that had been applied 30 seconds ago it left very noticeable bristle marks. Looking to slow down the drying a skosh.

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          • #6
            I have used water-based poly on many of my Escher-inspired reliefs. I have sprayed it on with a compressor-driven spray gun with the product thinned a bit with water. I have also brushed the poly on other carvings. I was trying to reduce the wood darkening or the yellowing of spar varnish. It is very difficult to strip and re-finish woodcarvings with intricate details, undercuts, etc.
            The only Aspen carving I have is the little mountaineer figure. It has no finish other than the food dyes on the base lettering. It was carved in 1971 and has darkened quite a bit. On basswood the poly seems to restrain the darkening, especially if I use several coats. This little fish is a good example:

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            • #7
              I have used "Deft Clear Wood Finish Brushing Lacquer" Semi-Gloss and Gloss on a number of projects that did not need a poly. I have found it to be a good finish and no yellowing.
              Could be a alternative Ed.


              We live in the land of the free because of the brave! Semper Fi
              https://www.pinterest.com/carvingbarn0363/

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              • #8
                Eddie remarked about air bubbles, maybe a little blow with a heat gun, Which is recommended with a two-part epoxy-resin pour get rid of air bubbles
                . . .JoeB

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                • #9
                  You might try clear automotive lacquer in a spray. Not much different from other lacquers used on wood, and doesn't yellow. Dupli-Color makes a product called Paint Shop that can be purchased at automotive stores. They make matte, gloss and "extreme" gloss clear. I've used it on vehicles and it stands up to the California sun quite well.

                  Welcome to Dupli-Color®! The leading manufacturer of Do-It-Yourself Automotive Paints & Coatings and Exact-Match Automotive Touch-Up Paint.

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by joepaulbutler View Post
                    Eddie remarked about air bubbles, maybe a little blow with a heat gun, Which is recommended with a two-part epoxy-resin pour get rid of air bubbles
                    Joe.... Your idea might be a sound one but personally I'd be wary of trying it as it seems to me that the added heat would only make things dry faster and leave the rings of the bubbles in place. What I do is that as soon as my carving is completely coated I dry my brush off on a paper towel and then rework the areas where bubbles or excess product remains until all the bubbles are gone. Often it may take drying off the brush three or four or more times.

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                    • #11
                      Ya Eddie, you just kind of make quick passes over it, I understand what your saying
                      . . .JoeB

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                      • #12
                        Does water based poly darken the wood less than "other" based poly? Not trying to be a smart**s, but wondering why not just use a spraycan poly?
                        Arthur

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by Arthur C. View Post
                          Does water based poly darken the wood less than "other" based poly? Not trying to be a smart**s, but wondering why not just use a spraycan poly?
                          Art.... I can't speak for sprayed on water based poly but brushed on water based poly definitely leaves a lighter, more natural looking wood. Back when I was into artificial wooden fishing lures I used to use oil based products and had to be very mindful of what colors I used on the lures as with oil they would come out much darker than using clear water based products.

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                          • #14
                            Arthur C. Water based poly has very little effect on the color nor do you get the contrast in the grain.

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