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  • WildIsTheWind
    started a topic Detail knives

    Detail knives

    ​​​​I'm still fairly new to carving, and have done most of my work with a short Finnish knife (https://www.lamnia.com/en/p/118/kniv...z-uhc-bearclaw). I find it good for all but the last few levels of detail, which I've done rather unhappily with an xacto. I'm looking to get a detail knife or two, and was considering Drake as well as Cape Forge. I'm wondering about the difference in functionality for the blade profiles, though. For example, between the high-point and curved detail knives from Drake, or between a sheepsfoot style miniature like Drake's 3/4"mini and the curved Cape Forge #4. It's got to be more than aesthetics, is it just preference? Or do different shapes do better without different things?

    DK7_HIGH_POINT_1024x1024.jpeg vs DK4_1.375_DETAIL_1024x1024.jpeg


    DK13_MINI_DETAIL_1024x1024.jpeg vs Screenshot_20181007-204946_Chrome.jpg
    Last edited by WildIsTheWind; 10-07-2018, 07:50 PM. Reason: Pictures vs links

  • Arthur C.
    replied
    I guess I'm something of an oddball, or just ignorant, but I use a small Flexcut chip carving knife and the corners of my gouges for detail work. I would probably get a dedicated detail knife if I could ever decide on a blade size and configuration.

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  • joepaulbutler
    replied
    Arthur, I've got one, had it for a long time. it comes in handy when getting down to the end, Mine an up-sweep -3/4" blade. I suppose if I snapped the blade I would order another

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  • Arthur C.
    replied
    Does anyone use a Pelikan blade? It looks interesting.

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  • Brian T
    replied
    I don't have much use for straight knives. Crooked knives, yes.
    When I want another straight knife, I'll buy it from BrandantR at Old Stump.
    It's almost ancient history now but I think I'll ask for a "caterpillar."

    Leave a comment:


  • tbox61
    replied
    Well, here's my .02...I have 3 detail knives and use them a lot. I have a 3/4" straight blade Denny knife, which is now made by Mike Shipley with OCC Tools. It is a handy little booger. The two I find myself picking up more than the Denny is Deepwood's Ventures scalpel blades...one a straight blade and the other an upswept blade. They are scary sharp and hand forged. I believe they are both 3/4" blades.

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  • Gulf Coast Handyman
    replied
    Helvie or Drake for me.

    Dave

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  • Randy
    replied

    You may also want to consider Helvie knifes. They are another very nice knife maker. They make them as ordered and I like that on most of them I can chose the handle shape I like.
    http://www.helvieknives.com/

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  • joepaulbutler
    replied
    Keep them sharp

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  • WildIsTheWind
    replied
    Originally posted by Claude View Post
    Many of us press a blade with a straight edge directly into the wood, as if it were a chisel. Wood cuts MUCH easier if a slicing motion is used. I first observed this use of slicing at the RWR in TN by watching what the instructors were doing; all used a slicing motion, so I've trained myself to use a slicing motion on all my straight edge blades. The scimitar blade, though because of the curve and length, will almost automatically cause a slicing motion; the curve means the edge meets the wood at an angle, similar to a skew chisel/gouge. The upsweep is not for everyone - you have to be comfortable with whatever knife you use, but for me, that upsweep blade makes my carving much easier and more fun (after I had figured out how to use it!)

    Claude
    I guess that's a bad habit I never learned, as I started fiddling using a swept blade pocket knife, and moved on to the roselli. My tendency to slice actually makes me hesitant about straight blades - how do they not snag everywhere?

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  • Claude
    replied
    Rick makes some good points... I have an upswept "scimitar" blade from Allen Goodman. Only 0.30 thick so it's quite flexible. Blade is 1.75 inches long. I bought it from him because it was flexible and extremely sharp. Didn't like it at all, right at first. Found after using it a while, the tail of the handle was way too thick for my hands. Fixed that with a sanding drum in my drill press so it fit my hand better. I continued to "play" with the knife over the next year, getting used to what it can and can't do... It's one of my favorites now. Holds an edge like you wouldn't believe and goes through basswood like butter. I kept looking at it when using it and finally figured it out. Many of us press a blade with a straight edge directly into the wood, as if it were a chisel. Wood cuts MUCH easier if a slicing motion is used. I first observed this use of slicing at the RWR in TN by watching what the instructors were doing; all used a slicing motion, so I've trained myself to use a slicing motion on all my straight edge blades. The scimitar blade, though because of the curve and length, will almost automatically cause a slicing motion; the curve means the edge meets the wood at an angle, similar to a skew chisel/gouge. The upsweep is not for everyone - you have to be comfortable with whatever knife you use, but for me, that upsweep blade makes my carving much easier and more fun (after I had figured out how to use it!)

    Claude

    Leave a comment:


  • rickm
    replied
    well personal preference rule i like a worn out rough out knife that i work furthrt doen i think for me the basic for a detail knife is thin as you van get it and that means good steel so it doesnt chip off or break. cape forge is excellent but p.s. i find mot detail knives per se i buy i have to cut down to make thinner anyway I dont likr the up swept blades in ther picture as i have had them slp and thry are like a ramp that goe up i would rather have flat blade but again its up to you a thin blade, strong and with a good point also a lot of dunkles fit the bill nicely and im liking occ more anfd more good knife good price and a lot of styles to choose from

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  • Brian T
    replied
    I carve mostly western red cedar. It does not hold detail so I have little to be concerned about.
    I have a "detail" knife, built by BrandantR (Old Stump). Just a straight edge, no curve, and it will clean any corner.

    I suspect that you will wind up buying several. Each one teaches you the questions to ask of the next one.
    If you develop T.A.S (Tool Aquisition Syndrome,) nobody here will notice.

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  • mpounders
    replied
    Originally posted by WildIsTheWind View Post
    By the way, is there a classifieds section on this form?
    Sorry, no classifieds. They seemed to create problems with the original web site, so they never implemented them here. Helvie is a mom and pop enterprise, with Rich and Holli Smithson making every knife and tool sold. They will even make you a custom knife with your choice of blade length, style thickness in a handle of your choice. I own a number of Helvies and they are always the ones I reach for. A one inch or smaller blade is usually considered a detail blade, but most of mine are 2 inches. The extra length helps me reach deeper on the carvings I do.Pick a handle that looks like what you might prefer and order one! I also have Drakes in knives and gouges and I hear great things about the Cape Forge also. You will not be disappointed with either of those three brands.

    Leave a comment:


  • WildIsTheWind
    replied
    By the way, is there a classifieds section on this form?

    Leave a comment:

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