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Henry Taylor Sizing?

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  • Henry Taylor Sizing?

    Do the Henry Taylor tools use the London pattern for sizing? Or are they closer to the European numbering? I’m looking for the equivalent of an Ashley Isles #5, or a European #6, from Henry Taylor.

  • #2
    I'd expect HT to use the LPB for sweeps. The LPB #5 sweep should be a European #4 (as they call a skew a 1S not a #2).
    Brian T

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    • #3
      Isn’t it the other way around? My Ashley Isles #6 seem to be about the same sweep as my Two Cherries #7

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      • #4
        If you write out the numbers in a row and then a row of European numbers below

        1^^^^ 2^^^^ 3^^^^ 4^^^^ 5^^^^ 6^^^^ 7^^^^ (LPB)
        1^^^ 1S^^^ 2^^^^ 3^^^^ 4^^^^ 5^^^^ 6^^^^ (Euro)

        The LPB #5 is a Euro #4. Has to be. What that means in real world shapes is anybody's guess.
        I look at it like all the #5's are kind of the same and different from all the #7, which are kind of the same.
        Edit: I had to add crap^^^^ to open up my little chart.

        What your match-up shows is the real difference between one blade smith and the next.
        They all were never meant to be perfectly the same with the exact same sets of dies and mandrels.

        Blow up a chart and physically match your sweeps to a chart.
        Be aware of photocopying distortions. They are facts of life.
        = = =
        Here in the Pacific Northwest there are no standards at all for crooked knives or elbow adzes.
        You pick out the shape that you think will do the job.
        When I want a 'J' -shaped blade, that looks like a 'C' bend from Kestrel
        If I want a little one, that's called a #4. Go Figure.

        What I do get is a progressive sweep unlike an Anglo tool.
        Most of my crooked knives go from #1 to the scorp which is about a #9 sweep and everything in between.
        Some days, I believe that puts me at an advantage.
        Last edited by Brian T; 02-23-2019, 11:35 PM.
        Brian T

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        • #5
          Henry Taylor follows the LPB. Almost all do except for Pfeil. But be aware that vendor A's sweep 6 could be vendor B's 5 or 7.

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          • #6
            Thanks for explaining. Just to clarify, the LPB is just a numbering system, and doesn’t necessarily dictate the the amount of curvature that goes with each number? In other words, an Ashley Isles #5 and a Henry Taylor #5 could be quite different, even if they both use the London pattern book? I knew that they were all different, but I guess I didn’t realize the degree to which they vary.

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            • #7
              On my LPB chart, in my English wood carving text, the radius of curvature changes.
              #3 and a #9 sweeps are not small scale parts of the same circle.

              My Pfeil 2/30 is nearly flat, a slight curve to the edge.
              My Pfeil 9/15 is a deep U shape with parallel side walls.
              Brian T

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              • #8
                The LPB is for the numbers. The shapes will be close, but you will find a few from any vendor that don't match the LPB.

                One thing you can do is make a print out of the LPB, make sure it's sized accurately. Then take your existing gouges and see where they fit on it. Write down the ones you have. Take the copy with you next time you go to buy tools (this assumes you can see them in person) then simply pick tools that fit the sweeps you DON'T have.

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                • #9
                  I would expect to find the sweep and the width stamped into the handles. A perfect match to the LPB (or Pfeil) isn't a big deal for me.
                  I learned that having odd numbered sweeps ( #3, #5, #7 & #9) is plenty good enough for shapes of cuts.
                  Maybe then a small one and a big one of some sweeps, a 5/14 and a 5/35, for example.

                  Brian T

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Robson Valley View Post
                    A perfect match to the LPB (or Pfeil) isn't a big deal for me.
                    Me neither, but I do what I do so I don't end up buying two tools that are numbered differently but are actually the same shape. On the other hand if you do end up with two that are identical or nearly so, then "fix" the issue. Make one a bull nose or in some way modify it from the other so it serves an additional purpose.

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