Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Jet Bandsaw

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Jet Bandsaw

    I finally got around to replacing the blade on my bandsaw that came with it. This is a Jet 14" CS saw. The blade that came was a 1/2 inch 6TPI, so I was not able to cut curves with it. I ordered a replacement 1/4 inch 4TPI Timberwolf blade and it had been here for a couple months - just not enough time to swap the blades. I took the tension off by cranking the knob for a while (no quick tension release lever). Got the old blade off and the new one on. Adjusted the graphite block, thrust bearings on both upper and lower blade guides, checked tracking, and gave it a quick Start/Stop pulse. The blade came off the wheels. Put it back, tried again, rotating wheels by hand. Worked great. Closed it up, gave it a quick start/stop pulse, and the blade came off the wheels again. Sigh... Opened it up and noticed that the upper wheel seemed loose. Checked the bearing nut and it was tight. Hmmm... Took the upper wheel off so I could see into the tracking/tensioning mechanism. Apparently, when I took off the tension originally, I took off too much and the tensioning assembly came apart. Naturally, the manual the came with the saw had no instructions about this mechanism. Finally figured out that a square nut on the tensioning shaft had to be held until a bit of tension was put on system. Got it back together after a bit and discovered the bandsaw table had rust on it in spots! I knew it was cast iron, but I had put a bit of WD40 on it a couple of months ago and hadn't seen any rust. As I'm leaning over it to see better, a drop of sweat landed on the table. Aha! The temp was 92°F (heat index of 106°F. While I had been working on the tensioning mechanism, I was dripping sweat on the table... More WD-40 and a quick rub with a paper towel got rid of the rust. Then proceeded to cut out new carving. Saw worked well - straight cuts tracked straight, curved cuts down to a 3/8 inch radius in either direction. So far, at least, the saw is performing well for me.

    Claude
    My FaceBook Page: https://www.facebook.com/ClaudesWoodCarving/

    My Pinterest Page: https://www.pinterest.com/cfreaner/

    My ETSY Shop: https://www.etsy.com/shop/ClaudesWoodcarving

  • #2
    Hi Claude,

    I have had a lot of luck keeping my cast iron tools rust free by applying an occasional coat of non-silicone containing paste wax (Minwax). Have fun.

    Comment


    • #3
      Thanks for the description. I follow all BS stories in detail.

      Wish I could say the same about my bandsaw. I set it up with a feeler gauge, _exactly_ according to the book.
      The saw always cuts to the northwest. Never straight. Never. Blade brand and blade condition is not relevant (20 blades?).
      The wheels, the tires, the guides are all clean and in A-1 shape. I'd like to know why it will not cut straight at all.
      Maybe a new BS cures all ills but I'd like to know what's wrong with this one.
      Brian T

      Comment


      • #4
        I have a 12" Jet and the amount of adjustment in the blade is almost nil. I have to have blades cut to an exact length to work properly. I spent 2 hours on the phone with a guy from the Jet factory before we figured this out.
        Terry

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by Brian T View Post
          Thanks for the description. I follow all BS stories in detail.

          Wish I could say the same about my bandsaw. I set it up with a feeler gauge, _exactly_ according to the book.
          The saw always cuts to the northwest. Never straight. Never. Blade brand and blade condition is not relevant (20 blades?).
          The wheels, the tires, the guides are all clean and in A-1 shape. I'd like to know why it will not cut straight at all.
          Maybe a new BS cures all ills but I'd like to know what's wrong with this one.
          Have you tried a TuffTooth blade Brian? HUGE difference. (eactly the same blade as ones branded Timberwolf or Viking.
          I have found that these low tension blades are the real deal. I use a 1/4 -6 tpi blade for everything.
          I do not have really great band saw, but it works. Other blade brands - not so good.

          You can get Tufftooth blades from KMS tools or R&D Bandsaws https://www.tufftooth.com/
          These blades are worth every cent, and the R&D site is worth perusing.

          You should see these guys at a show. They put one of their blades in a 14" saw, with no guide blocks, or thrust bearings and cut a perfectly straight line. When I saw that, I got their blades and have NEVER used anything else. My saw gets used pretty much every day.

          Comment


          • #6
            Thanks, Rick. I'll look into that. The bench top Ryobi uses a short blade and spares are very hard to come by.
            I'll check with KMS when I get into the shop to confirm blade length.
            Brian T

            Comment


            • #7
              Rick, do you buy the bandsaw in lengths and weld your own or buy them to fit? I looked at the site and also are you using the bi-metal blades or carbon? One time at woodcarving club, a gent came with a homemade jig and showed how to silver solder a blade back together. One elderly gent said he just did it by hand. The guy with the jig said why don't you just come up here and show us how you do that. The old gent never paused, he walked up there and carefully put a small piece of silver solder across the top of the break, very carefully held it over the flame of a propane torch and it was straight and he did it perfectly. We were all amazed at what we just seen happen!

              Comment


              • #8
                Hi Rick , was about to order Band saw Blades and thought I'de give these Blades a Shot. The first thing I noticed was the Price , very reasonable . I have always used Timberwolf Blades so will have something to compare with . Thanks for the Tip ... Merle

                Comment


                • #9
                  Merle.

                  Tufftooth are identical to Timberwolf.

                  I use what they call the Swedish Silicon blades. In my opinion, these blades are the single most important thing that can be done to improve band saw performance. The improvement is incredible!

                  To answer Curly:
                  I made a little jig for myself and do sometimes silver solder/braze blades. Usually, though, by the time a blade breaks it is really worn out and it will just break at another crack again, so it isn't worth it to fool around with it. If it breaks at the weld, you can send it back and they will re weld it.

                  The story about the free hand soldering is pretty impressive!

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Good job at getting to know your saw better Claude. I bet that will not happen again.
                    Carve On,
                    Kadiddle

                    Comment

                    Working...
                    X