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  • joepaulbutler
    replied
    The only power I use is TomZ sharpener, slow and easy.

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  • SlowMover
    replied
    I never sharpen with power anymore. As fast as you can sharpen a knife with power is exactly how fast you can really damage the edge as well if you make a mistake with your angle. It doesn't take much time to tune up and strop a blade to keep it sharp. I have a stick with 1200 grit emery paper on one side and leather with compound on the other, a few strokes on each side every ten minutes or so and I am always ready to carve with a sharp knife.

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  • Dileon
    replied
    OH yea just wondering did you ever get another Rot? The neighbor just got a puppy cute as a button and was thinking about you?

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  • Dileon
    replied
    A good chef would never ever put a chefs knife into an electrical sharper....as it does not produce a good cutting edge to cut food. Want to ruin a fast cutting perfect edge....stick it into an electrical knife sharping device that will more than likely produce an edge that will need to be reshaped. Fact be fact be fact short cut methods are almost never a short cut......we have to do it the right way. It took me years to learn to make that perfect edge and in my old age top with crippled hands we still screw it up....but with patience, we can cut almost any kind of wood today. Rick I use various methods also....but every time I want to do it faster and better I ended up paying cash for a really bad deal....LOL

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  • rickm
    replied
    john dunkle from dunkle knives tells me never put a knife on a grinder unless you totally know what your doing, i do but dont have real good luck with in fact i dont have a foolproof method, and bounce between a drill and water stones and sandpaper and get lucky and get a edge but its a long process it seems like i use the grinder to polish the edge but cant seem to do it by the grinder alone, i guess i really dont know how to do it via one method alone and have to work at it continually to make it all work the tomz has helped me considerably but i still need to fine tune the edge and that is by hand and seems like a long process mostly

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  • rolds
    replied
    IMHO you cannot beat a bench grinder at 3600 using cardboard or MDF wheel and loose cotton you must be VERY careful it is dangerous if not paying attention, using LOTs of compound you will not over heat your tool. I make hundreds of tools every summer. After a tool has been sharpened properly it takes just seconds to bring back to carving sharp.

    I use belt sanders to shape tool(s) 60 grit then 120 and hone with chromium oxide and or aluminum oxide.

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  • Brian T
    replied
    The Italian steel making company, Porsche (car-guy's brother) has some good kitchen knives for approx $100.00 each.
    They recommend a 4K grit water stone. Primary bevel as Claude shows = 20 degrees, secondary = 30.

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  • Claude
    replied
    Here's a drawing that helps explain the difference between kitchen knives and carving knives.
    Claude KnifeAngle.jpg

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  • Just Carving
    replied
    I usually do everything by hand using sandpaper--120, 220, 400, 800, 1000, 2000 grits as needed. Then strop with white or gold compound.

    I've used power tools when making a knife from scratch using the same grits. If I'm in the power tool mood, I'll use the belt sander or an electric drill with a 5" disc attachment. Just need to cool the tool/blade down often as I go along.

    Bob L

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  • Curly Early
    replied
    Years ago, joining woodcarving classes, I was ready to carve. First night, all we did was learn to sharpen our knife. We were given a 2" x 2" about 14-16" long, had abrasive roll paper glued to one side and a 2" wide strip of leather glued to the other side with rouge on it. I used that "slickem stick" as they called it until the abrasive was all gone. We had Murphy knives and were taught to use equal strokes dragging the blade away from the edge, just laying the knife flat. Until that night, I never had a knife that sharp and the experience stayed with me.

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  • Brian T
    replied
    Just don't waste your time and money. The kitchen machines will do no better than a Drill Doctor.
    "Carving Sharp" is a learned technique that applies to wood carving edges.
    I had to learn. Went to bed wondering WHY? the edge was not carving sharp.

    Now, I can sharpen and hone a crooked knife over my knee.
    You could watch for 15 minutes and never see what I'm doing.
    Ask and I will teach and explain the whole deal to you.

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  • Gulf Coast Handyman
    replied
    TOMZ and a buffer! / 1x30 belt sander with a leather belt.
    Last edited by Gulf Coast Handyman; 07-02-2019, 08:01 PM.

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  • woodburner807
    replied
    What I use, although old fashion, is to run the knife through thinner and thinner grits of oil stones. I finish with an Arkansas black. The honing is done with a file folder covered with Flexcut sharpening compound. No machinery used. I have limited space and don't have a lot of room for "extras."

    Brain's statement about kitchen knives made at different angles because they are meant to cut meat/produce etc. is what I have noticed also.

    I'm the odd duck that actually likes to sharpen my knives the old way and find it as relaxing as the carving...although obviously not as productive.

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  • joepaulbutler
    replied
    For wood carving, the thought makes me shudder. Stick to hand sharpening, the electric sharpers you are talking about might work to put the rough edge on your knife or on a knife blank you're sharpening the first time and just want to get the edge started. But for the finished edge, the only power I use is Tomz and It is made for us carvers, Again just my 2ยข.

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  • Brian T
    replied
    Grit size (no honing) and bevel angles are for the kitchen = meats and vegetables, not wood.
    If you need 12 degrees for a carving knife, I'll bet the kitchen edges are 20+ and rough.

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