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How do you handle shaping of micro gouge region of imperfect v tools?

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  • How do you handle shaping of micro gouge region of imperfect v tools?

    Hello again!

    All of my v tools (Pfeil and Ashley Iles) have imperfect metal forming at the radius to various degrees - often with a little lump to one side (see sketch). This leads to challenges achieving a good micro gouge in that region. What usually happens when sharping is that in order to compensate for the asymmetry, the micro gouge ends up trailing back from the edge of the main bevels because I end up over working that area. How do you compensate for those issues? It occurs most when I sharpen the keel after the main bevels which seems to be the way most people recommend sharpening.

    thanks again!
    Attached Files

  • #2
    What I’ve been doing today, by the way, is making the radius smoother with a slip whilst there’s still a bit of meat left on the sides. (Ie before grinding to the stage of a sharp edge all round).

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    • #3
      Yes, Jof, I use a small slip stone to shape the inner side of my V-tools

      Here is a link to an earlier discussion - specifically about the heel area of #11 U-gouges.

      https://forum.woodcarvingillustrated...p-out-of-gouge
      Last edited by pallin; 09-29-2019, 01:20 PM. Reason: added link to prior discussion

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      • #4
        Perfect. Thank you sir!

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        • #5
          Are you talking about a wire edge that may be developing on the inside after honing/stropping/ whatever the outside bevels? I just hold mine upside down on a buffing wheel, but an inverse v-shaped leather wheel, slip stones, or a piece of wood with compound on it will remove the wire edge also.
          'If it wasn't for caffeine, I wouldn't have any personality at all!"

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          • #6
            No a wire edge, no. Imagine the image I posted is a cross-section - which is kinda is; it’s what I see if I blunt the tool (by putting it at right angles to my stone) and then polishing. There’s no burr but rather this is due to the shape of the forging/machining of the tool itself.

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            • #7
              Definitely a job for a shaped slip stone and/or a shaped stick with attached abrasive paper or folded abrasive paper. You can even create a shaped stick with abrasive paper on a single side to protect any interior surfaces that already have the desired shape. It won't reshape the entire interior area profile along the body of the tool but can be used to reshape the profile near the edge including a slight interior bevel if necessary. The same technique is normally used to eliminate grinding marks (grooves) on larger tool profiles. High magnification during the shaping process is extremely helpful when working on small profile tools. Something else I have found useful is to stone the end of the tool to create a small flat at the edge which highlights the actual inside surface profile. After the inside has been shaped to the desired form I then re-sharpen the tool to the desired level. The good news is that the process goes quickly for small tools since there is little metal to remove in the process. There are no perfect tools and you will find that it often makes little difference in the finished products, but having tools we are happy with makes the process much more satisfying to the carver. Have fun.

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              • #8
                We would like to believe that a reputable manufacturer would only sell tools matched to our needs, but their primary interest is selling the tools. So they make them shiny, smooth and somewhat sharp. Once sold, the responsibility for functionality belongs to the new owner. When tools are used they will get dull. As a carver you must learn to maintain your tools, or limit your projects to those that can be carved with disposable blade utility knives.

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