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Inner bevel on gouges?

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  • #16
    Originally posted by Brian T View Post
    Outside bevels on gouges.
    If an inside bevel was really a good thing, the big names would be selling tools made that way.
    They don't.
    I will disagree with you there. Most big names don't even sell sharp tools and I think we all agree sharp tools are a good idea. So if they don't sell them sharp, why would they bother to go to more work and provide an inside bevel?

    It is personal preference. I don't think it's a big deal for most carvers outside of traditional artistic wood carving. By that I mean carved furniture, wood work in buildings, picture frames and the like, an inside bevel can be useful. Probably won't make a bit of difference on a Santa or cowboy or other caricature type work.

    It's more useful on sweeps less than 6.

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    • #17
      Sharp tools are a good idea. No argument. Still, mine need honing every 30-40 minutes.

      However, I have no objection to being sold a dull tool.
      I consider that the maker will allow me to select the bevel angle that I need and make it so.

      Many of my crooked knives arrived from the farrier ($5) dirty, dull, worn down and approx 25 degrees.
      I make the blades bright, shiny, carving sharp at 12 degrees. Only need doing that once.
      Then I bash off the handles and haft them in the Pacific Northwest First Nations design.

      Even buying PacNW designed blades, I have yet to get one that is carving sharp.
      Possibly that's just too tedious and argmentative to be bothered with?
      If you buy the blade, you must know what to do with it?
      Brian T

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      • #18
        Echoing one of the other replies, with the exception of my spoon gouges*, all my tools have an inner bevel for the following reasons

        1) I sharpen the outer bevel to 15 degrees meaning they are more fragile than the common 20-25 degrees. Here, having an inner bevel of about 10 degrees gives them a bit of extra strength. This is especially true for those made by Pfeil which I've found tend to be brittle and chip easily at low angles.

        2) when using the tool "upside down" the bevel gives me more control and stops the tool diving into the wood so easily. Plus it makes the blade run smoother in this orientation.

        3) it gives me a little bit of extra refinement of the shape of the blade edge.

        To put on the inner bevel I use a fine conical diamond stone (probably about 1000 grit) at a low angle with a circular motion and then strop with a thick leather disc attached to an electric drill. The process takes about a minute to produce a 1-2mm long bevel you can feel with your finger.

        * my v tools end up with an inner bevel as a side effect of shaping the inside bottom radius
        Last edited by Jof; 12-28-2019, 09:29 AM.

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        • #19
          I’m in the minority. I use a slip stone and strop to put a small inner bevel on the inside of the gouges. I think it makes it easier to control the tool when I turn it over and carve convex surfaces. I also find it helps to keep the tool driving straight down when I’m setting in with a mallet. Finally, a lot of antique gouges have rust putting on the inside. An inner bevel allows me to get edge on an otherwise unusable tool. It took a few days to get used to it, but once I did, I never went back.

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