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Carving hatchet recommendations?

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  • Squid-61
    replied
    The axe or hatchet is just a tool to be used where it best fits the job. If the job starts with an axe and gets to the point where your using the axe like a knife, you've used it enough, go to a knife. I only use an axe for splitting, bark removal where a knife is too small and very rough shaping like getting one flat surface for stability on my band saw. Since I'm in suburbia not a forest I use my band saw for most rough shaping; faster, safer and more accurate than an axe. Having said that, that axe hewn stool looks great.

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  • bowinhand
    replied
    Found this one too:
    http://timmanneychairmaker.blogspot....nding.html?m=1
    Looks like another project to try.

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  • bowinhand
    replied
    Here is a link on use of the hatchet in wood work:
    https://paulsellers.com/2013/09/shaping-axes-carving/

    Leave a comment:


  • Brian T
    replied
    True enough. There are easier ways to carve a spoon.

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  • jmischel
    replied
    Originally posted by Brian T View Post
    There is a ritualistic process for spoon carving which is rarely, if ever, shared here.
    As I have learned, you are allowed three particular tools and no others. None. Dogma.
    First, a true "carver's axe." Second, a straight knife with approx 4" blade.
    Third, a spoon knife, aka a really crooked knife.
    Examples would be MoraFrost #162, #163 and #164.

    The same rigid experience appears in carving kuksa from birch burl.

    I don't know if this process is drawn from the Sammi people experience in Scandinavian countries or not.
    As I said in a previous post, I'm not a traditionalist. I have little use for ritual. If I'm in my shop, I'll use the bandsaw to rough out the shape. Well, I'll probably do it with the hatchet a few times, just to learn how it's done. 'cause I will want to do this out in the field where I won't have a bandsaw, and the lack of a good clamping setup might make using the bow saw difficult.

    I know guys who are into "Viking woodwork" who won't use a hook knife. Some just use a hatchet. Their spoon bowls are basically elongated inverted pyramids. Not my thing. I'll use the hatchet, my carving knife, and a hook knife.

    Jim

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  • jmischel
    replied
    Originally posted by Squid-61 View Post
    Depends on how much actual carving you intend to do with it. If you're mainly going to split and debark with some preliminary roughing I'd suggest a good camp axe with about a 14" handle and a slightly modified edge to aid in carving. Those true carving axes are great for that purpose but not so great for more general use and their acute edge is more easily damaged than a more convex edge. I found a Swedish Axe Works 1.25 lb axe at a flea market that I reground to a more acute but still convex edge and sharpened to a polished edge with hand stones and it does great for chopping, splitting, debarking and general roughing. I can't see buying a super expensive carving or hewing axe for hobby crafting or occasional bushcraft adventures.
    That's the kind of info I was looking for. I'm going to spend a little more time tuning the edge on that cheap camp hatchet before I decide whether to spend real money. 'cause as you said, I'm mostly going to do chopping, splitting, debarking and general roughing. Once I get an idea of how much "general roughing" or any more detailed work I'm going to do, I might lay down a bit more cash.

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  • jmischel
    replied
    Originally posted by pallin View Post

    The tradition among Native Americans is to make your own. Start with a piece of automotive leaf spring. . .
    I'm neither Native American, nor a traditionalist. I'm a bit curious about how to make knives and such, but I'm more interested in using the silly things to carve wood. Think I'll skip tradition for now.

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  • jmischel
    replied
    Originally posted by jderijcke View Post

    one of those will last a lifetime... I used them in workshops and noticed the difference with any ordinary axe.
    I only own the GB large carving axe and because for a lot of people the other ones are expensive like you say I bought the Robin wood carving axe. It is the best solution for quality/price I think. See https://wood-tools.co.uk/shop/

    The other (more expensive) carving axes I used in workshops with great pleisure : Karlsson axe and Kalthof axe. The last one was extremely good. The right size, weight, edge, ergonomy, balance ...
    Sadly, the Robin axe is sold out. But thanks for the alternative. That's a whole lot less pricey than the others!

    Leave a comment:


  • Brian T
    replied
    True enough, I see those spoons in that style in the BCUK site.
    Must have some much earlier off-shore origin.

    I buy shake blocks 24" tall x 12" x 8-12" thick. Split them into useful pieces with a froe.
    My preference is to follow an axe/hatchet strike with wedges for splitting.
    When I buy short (less than 8') logs, I can follow the splits down the sides
    with simple wooden wedges.

    Fresh woods have strong antibacterial & antifungal properties or all trees would rot.
    Sealing the kuksa surface as the wood seasons looks to require all sorts of traditions.

    Leave a comment:


  • Squid-61
    replied
    Brian T, that ritual seems to apply mainly to the bushcrafters. I use an axe, camp not carver's, to split a log and debark if needed and a band saw to rough out the spoon. I'd probably use a froe if I had one and it's too unstable to split a log on my band saw so axe it is! I can't imagine all the critters that could grow in/on a green wood coffee mug (kuksa), won't be making one any time soon.

    Leave a comment:


  • Brian T
    replied
    There is a ritualistic process for spoon carving which is rarely, if ever, shared here.
    As I have learned, you are allowed three particular tools and no others. None. Dogma.
    First, a true "carver's axe." Second, a straight knife with approx 4" blade.
    Third, a spoon knife, aka a really crooked knife.
    Examples would be MoraFrost #162, #163 and #164.

    The same rigid experience appears in carving kuksa from birch burl.

    I don't know if this process is drawn from the Sammi people experience in Scandinavian countries or not.

    Leave a comment:


  • Squid-61
    replied
    Depends on how much actual carving you intend to do with it. If you're mainly going to split and debark with some preliminary roughing I'd suggest a good camp axe with about a 14" handle and a slightly modified edge to aid in carving. Those true carving axes are great for that purpose but not so great for more general use and their acute edge is more easily damaged than a more convex edge. I found a Swedish Axe Works 1.25 lb axe at a flea market that I reground to a more acute but still convex edge and sharpened to a polished edge with hand stones and it does great for chopping, splitting, debarking and general roughing. I can't see buying a super expensive carving or hewing axe for hobby crafting or occasional bushcraft adventures.

    Leave a comment:


  • jderijcke
    replied
    Originally posted by jmischel View Post
    Jos: Wow, those Gränsfors hatchets are expensive! Is all that extra money really worthwhile?
    one of those will last a lifetime... I used them in workshops and noticed the difference with any ordinary axe.
    I only own the GB large carving axe and because for a lot of people the other ones are expensive like you say I bought the Robin wood carving axe. It is the best solution for quality/price I think. See https://wood-tools.co.uk/shop/

    The other (more expensive) carving axes I used in workshops with great pleisure : Karlsson axe and Kalthof axe. The last one was extremely good. The right size, weight, edge, ergonomy, balance ...

    Leave a comment:


  • Brian T
    replied
    Pre-'65 Volkswagen Bugs and Ford F350 leaf springs are the best.
    I desperately needed to avoid the learning curve of a blade smith.
    Might make an adze for texturing. Maybe. Some day. Maybe.

    FN kids with promise usually got apprenticed with a relative. Grandfather, maybe an uncle.
    Tool making was an important introduction. 6" mill file, forge is a trench in the ground.
    One very serviceable crooked knife coming right up.

    Kestrel*, Cariboo, North Bay, Crescent* (Lee Valley) and Jamie Sharp* are the big bladesmiths.
    Mike Komick* (Summerland) made very good knives but he died not so many years ago.
    *I have and use one or more crooked knives from them.

    As a means to an end, going with blades from Kestrel or Cariboo or North Bay is easiest.

    Leave a comment:


  • pallin
    replied
    Originally posted by jmischel View Post

    pallin: Interesting idea. I'll have to look into the adze. Any particular recommendations?

    Jim
    The tradition among Native Americans is to make your own. Start with a piece of automotive leaf spring. . .

    Leave a comment:

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