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  • #16
    My methods:

    For my pocket knives have a Tri Stone with the usual carborundum coarse which I rarely use, medium Arkansas which I use for really dull blades and fine Arkansas stone. I like my general use blades to have some "tooth" to the edge.

    For my kitchen knives I use a Norton India oil stone and Spyderco fine ceramic to sharpen and a fine steel or ceramic rod before each use.

    My leather knives get the India stone/ceramic stone treatment plus a strop charged with a wax-based white compound.

    My woodworking knives get the fine ceramic followed by an aluminum oxide powder charged stropping. Could they be sharper, maybe. Is it necessary, I doubt it.

    Back when I was doing saw/lathe/chisel type woodworking I tried the sandpaper approach for my lathe gouges, chisels and plane blades and went back to stones. Yeah the paper got stuff sharp but no better than my stones and the stones lasted while I was constantly replacing sandpaper.

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    • #17
      Squid, you hit on it. Maybe sharper? Is it needed? Enough to do the job does the job.
      I test my fresh edges in a "try-stick" of the wood I'm carving. Don't carve arm hair for fun or profit.

      Most aluminum oxide abrasives are snow white and run 0.25 micron nominal particle size.
      Iron oxides and copper oxides are rare but what gets used is in that size class.
      Chromium oxide is green. Even used as an artist's paint pigment. Usually 0.5 micron.
      The term "nominal" implies that you will get bigger and smaller particle sizes in the same batch.
      Brian T

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