Just finished some adze blades

[Jamie Sharp]

I just finished these adze blades. What do you guys think of them? Anything you would like seen done better or differently?

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The top one is 1" wide and the bottom is 2" wide.

[Brian T]

Are these meant to be used as elbow adze or D adze? I'd like to try texturing with the little one.

The shank on the big gutter could be a lot narrower. I'd have a hard time finding any wood for a handle. Maybe 1.5" at most. Considering the loading in wood carving, I don't think that would weaken the blade at all.

[Jamie Sharp]

Elbow adze. the blade is ever so slightly curved along the body.

I gifted the bottom blade away to a carver friend and he had some minor problems finding a handle to fit too. Took forever to grind even that much steel off the shank, next time I am going to cut the shank narrower then grind the cuts smooth to save time and make it much narrower. I think it is just about 1.5" wide but yea that turned out a bit wide.

How does a 1.25" shank sound for 1.5" through 2" blade adze?

Or should the 1.5" blade be more like, 1" shank?

Is the 1" adze ok at 1" shank?

[Brian T]

Gregg and Charlie put all the adze blade dimensions in a chart in the adze part of the online catalog.
I never swing these things like splitting firewood with an axe. Must go slower, heart rate is enough, to get some control. Then there's time to think about how much to take off before a move.
Half the time with the D adze, I push it like a plane to lift off shavings.

[Jamie Sharp]

Yea I know the adze is used carefully, I wanted to conserve the blade weight so that the handle head could be a little smaller and less stress between the handle/blade interface when the blade is doing most of the energy storage.

Seems Kestrel adzes has about 7/8" to 1 1/2" shank, with 1 1/8" being most common, so I guess I will aim for around 1 1/8" in general.

[pallin]

If mounted to an elbow handle the adjustment to a comfortable grip size can be achieved in the handle rather than the blade shank. Consider the balance issues of blade weight in the completed tool w/handle. In terms of blade shape, I prefer some flare.

[joepaulbutler]

Never used one, but they are a good looking blade.

[Brian T]

Take a look at these adzes. Both are Kestrel blades, hafted in birch cut to Kestrel patterns.

a) the Baby Sitka elbow adze:
I found a piece of good birch wide enough for the blade shank but far too thick for my hand.
If you look closely, you can see that the handle has been thinned (7/8") only in the hand grip area.
I figured out that size long before, making handles for crooked knives.
Next, look at the #18 cord whipping. The top yellow is not there just for looks.
The change to black marks the "Holm Constant" position for your first finger in the grip area.
Come 90 degrees off the edge of the bevel to the handle. That intercept was found to be the best balance point for long carving sessions with the adze. That handle is about #6, I think.

b) the D adze:
This thing weighs about 14 oz. It's a big blade. You need the mass to get anything done, a bit like a mallet on a gouge. I added the snail because I'm a slow carver. One major mistake I made is that the hand grip area is too short for all of my fingers. The hole could be maybe 1/4" - 3/8" longer.
However, it has quickly become a favorite edge on bigger pieces.

c) the planer knives:
Both began as Morakniv #188 double edged farrier's hoof trimming knives. Bashed off the factory handles, cut away the hooks and surface hafted the blades in dog-leg willow. 12* revised from 25*.
I made those of my own design for smoothing split western red cedar surfaces to lay on drawings.
The whipping hides my messy hafting in JB Weld Epoxy and hand grime from much use!

[Jamie Sharp]

I like the thinning location and rectangular handle on the elbow adze. It feels very much in line with my existing handle style. Also I bet it keeps the neck of the tool strong as that seems to be a stressed area.

Nice little flare on the back of the D adze handle.

Nice double handed style handles. I wonder why so many other knife manufactures use such short handles? I have been aiming for about 10~12" handles as i feel that gives ability to double hand, without being too big to easily store/ship.

[Brian T]

Thanks.

I learned that there is a lot more to First Nations design adzes that meets the eye, even when you have a blade in your hand and paper patterns. Quite pleased with the experiences. Must thank Charlie at Kestrel, he's been as close to a mentor as I have ever had.

The elbow adze handle is drilled out and pegged with a dowel and epoxy. Still does not prevent the handle from cracking. I've broken my share. I'd use the traditional trunk/branch for strength but I can't see a joint good enough to justify cutting down a whole tree just for that. Alder up here just doesn't seem to grow like is needed.

The hand grip area of the D adze is almost like a saddle for your hand.
Lots of work to get that handle finished from any cut-out blank.

My planers. Never seen anything like them. I split shake blocks and I can't draw
much on the rough surfaces, even a half-decent center-line.
Skewed slightly in a pull stroke, you can peel off 24" curly shavings.
Send them in a mailing tube. No big deal. I have a box that might have been for a saxophone a century ago. Long enough to store those with my draw knife, etc.

[Jamie Sharp]

If handle cracking is something most adzes handles are prone to, what about using a steel rod instead of a wood dowel?

And agreed, I just can't justify running around with a saw cutting young trees down to make adzes. I would rather block it outta solid wood.

[Brian T]

Alder is a good handle choice, here is a regen weed species. Fills in the road ditches to make wildlife hard to see and corner vision down right dangerous. Blocks winter logging road snow plowing, too. Usually mowed down broom handle size and smaller. So you can take anything you like (canes, walking sticks, etc) as long as you leave no more than a 3" stump.

It's the piece of wood. The handle you see in the picture is 5+ years old, no signs of any damage. Unlike the others cut from the very same plank of birch. So like they say, "If it ain't busted, don't fix it."
A length of threaded rod set in epoxy might be an improvement. But it has to be done before the top of the elbow wood gets sawed off.

[Nicholas Kager]

Let me know when you get those adze blades where you want them to be. I plan on purchasing a few! Good work! All my stimulus going to Canada

[Jamie Sharp]

Already gave away the 2" for testing, and sold the 1" to the guy who did the testing as he loves the 2"!

Got two 1 3/8" being made atm if you are interested, If not just tell me what sizes you are most interested in and I'll make one in the next batch.

[Nicholas Kager]

Are they gutter adzes are straight? I am looking for gutter. But will also try a straight. Thanks Jamie.