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1 x 30 grinder for shaping scraper blades.

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  • 1 x 30 grinder for shaping scraper blades.

    So I am wanting to start out with a tiny grinder for shaping smaller scraper, Sawzall, jigsaw blades, etc. I know I will want a larger one eventually. I want to get a smaller one to start with and so that my son can use when I upgrade. Thanks for any suggestions! Looking at this right now.

  • #2
    Nick, I don’t see an rpm rating, but am guessing 3400. You really have to be careful about burning the tips of tools, and ruining the temper. Keep the water handy, and go slow. Cutting out shapes, I have used a dremel with a cutoff wheel, then go about finishing the blade.
    If I took the time to fix all my mistakes, I wouldn,t have time to make new ones.


    • #3
      I don't think a 1x is worth it. Unless you dont plan on sharpening anything over 1" long. I personally think a 2x is worth the extra money.
      I have a small delta shop master sander, 4x36. It's not meant for knives, but if you adjust the belt all the way to each side you can manage....somewhat. That's how I sharpened my sawzall blade knife. Helvie has some good videos on youtube on how he sharpenes his knives.


      • #4
        I'll pass along the suggestion that I use when cutting the shape out with a Dremel & cutoff wheel.

        I have a 4x4x12 piece of oak, have a spritzer bottle full of cool water, I wet the wood generously, lay the metal on the water spray again, then start cutting. Maybe a little sloppy, but you can manage the heat in your steel better. Again just my2¢
        . . .JoeB


        • #5
          Thanks for the suggestions!


          • #6
            I have modified a number of farrier's horse hoof trimming crooked knives for wood carving.
            Particularly the tips (smaller, cut to a point, narrowed, etc).

            The first thing is to mark the cut line with some sort of a felt pen.
            Then I use a Dremel with cutoff disks and a ShopVac for dust control.
            I cut a dotted line. Not all the way through. Touch, touch, touch. . . . . .
            Just to get the cut going but not enough to cook the blade.
            Never try to do the whole job in one pass.
            Then I go back over it enough times to actually cut the piece off.

            What I do see is that as the metal edge gets thinner, the chances of overheating go away up.
            I have, in fact, stopped and finished the sharpening job freehand.

            Brian T


            • #7
              I use a 1" x 30" belt sander, but only for smoothing the bandsawed edges of wood pieces I'm going to carve. For shaping metal blades I use only my slow speed grinder, with frequent cooling dips in water.


              • #8
                I tried a 1x30 but the belt speed was too fast. Very happy with my solution. Got the tote.



                • #9
                  Knifemaker here, I use a 1x30 a lot, but I use one powered by an angle grinder with a speed controller. I am going to upgrade to 2x72 soon. Highly recommend a 2x or wider belt. I also use a 6x48 for some tasks.

                  Sadly, all the common 4x machines are underpowered and the 6x are hard to find the proper belts for (getting better though) for metal working. Also a bit slow.

                  3/4HP 2x42 or 2x48 is really worth the extra money IMO. the typical 1/3HP 1x30 is just so narrow and low powered you can't put any pressure on your steel or you stall it, leading to horribly slow material removal rates to avoid burning and its very frustrating to use.

                  Get ceramic (low grit) and trizact (higher grit) belts. You'll go 'why is sandpaper so expensive?!' but it cuts so much faster and cooler then regular aluminum oxide sandpaper. Longer too.
         Straight and curved wood carving knives


                  • #10
                    You'll also need to mount the sander on it's back so the belt turns away from you. The speed of the belt on one of these will burn your blade in about 5 seconds of contact. I keep a glass of water next to the sander, touch the blade to the belt and count off 3 seconds, then dunk the blade in the water. As Jamie points out, it'll take quite a while to do anything because you are always dunking the blade in the water.

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                    • #11
                      Claude why does the belt need to turn away from you? I've watched videos of professionals using 2x72 machines and the belt is turning down. I know that power strop machines the belt turns up. I don't understand why .....just flip the knife over, right?