Dropped sub-mini tool on blade

[Frede]

Thanks for the suggestions. I'm going to approach the tool again using these methods. It may wind up being sacrificial, but as said, I can learn from it. I thought I could sharpen anything....NOT these tools.

[Frede]

Man and woman walks into my booth at crafts fair. Woman: You tried carving once, right? Man: Yea... cut myself twice in first hour, so gave it up. ...What's wrong with that picture?

In my opening remarks, during beginner classes, I tell students: it's my opinion that beginners quit carving for one of three reasons... all to do with tools:
1) they're using the wrong tool (wrong tool for the job, bad steel and won't hold an edge, etc.)
2) they're using the tool wrong (often leading to unnecessary cuts/stabs, etc.)
3) they're using a tool that's not sharp.

Learning to sharpen? My best advice: take a beginner class or find another carver and get some one-on-one, hands-on instruction. Numbers 1 and 2 above come easy for most folks with woodworking experience.... number 3, not so easy. I start beginners off using sand paper in various grits (see pics) followed by a leather strop charged with compound.

Ask 10 carvers how to sharpen and you'll get 11 answers. In order for me to learn new things, it must make sense to me. With all the methods and advice you'll get, I'd suggest you pick the one that makes the most sense to you and learn it.

I use a powered sharpener as described here: https://shellknobwoodcarvers.weebly.com/projects.html

I sharpen all my carving tools on it, including the micro ones. Advantages: I can sharpen tools very quickly; since I'm holding the tool, and the shaping/honing wheels do the moving, I can better control the angle and pressure applied to the tool. Disadvantages: HIGH learning curve; I can ruin a tool very quickly thru annealing of the steal. Frequent dunks in water is required when using the emery wheels.

Using leather for strops have never been a problem for me, it's just a matter of learning how to use. Too much pressure and wrong angle will cause edges to round over. The key here is technique. I can round an edge on cardboard or MDF just as easy if I roll the edge.

Good luck and don't give up. The time you spend learning to sharpen your tools will be well spent.
sharpening 13.jpg sharpening 14.jpg

I actually stumbled upon your powered sharpening tool write-up somewhere online which made me think about building one. I have a 1.5 hp tablesaw laying about and wondered if I it would be too fast, and if so, maybe I could add a speed pot to vary that speed. That would be "back-burner" at this point but it has me thinking.

You're echo mentoring I received from a master woodworker. I'd build nice furniture and top it off with sub-par finishing....so frustrating. He asked why I used six different finishing methods, then said "master one" and since I did finishing has been a joy.

I have the 3M 320 through 1000. I also have all the "scary sharp" 3M papers which is the method I use for chisels/plates. I'll give those a shot. Thanks!

[Frede]

If the gouge with the bent corner is Ramelson, give them a call. I remember reading somewhere that they replaced one that was bad.
Claude

I sent Ramelson an email explaining how the gouge bent when I dropped it. Here's the two responses I received from John Ramella, President of Ramelson Co:

Fred, I am so sorry that happened and NO it should not have bent. Can you tell me what tool it is or send a picture so I can send you a replacement?

The tool should not bend. Bad temper on our part. It is a 5/64" U that will be sent out today.
Thanks for understanding

[Frede]

New chisel arrive from Ramelson today. Excellent customer service I'd say....
20220211_181927.jpg

[Claude]

Glad it worked out for you! Thanks for telling us the results!

Claude

[Arthur C.]

Ramelson can't be beat for great customer service. I had a problem tool several years back and got a quick replacement with no hassle. Good folks.